Thread: DD Setup Q: Stock Springs w/ AM Sways and Struts

So, forget the front sway? I know that it was a (relatively) recent move in the Miata world to run no rear sway but a honking one up front to help dog legging and getting power down (moreso with my little whine machine). Having sufficient droop in the rear enabled better contact. Having said that, how can I better protect body roll and have a better camber curve in this nose heavy car if I do not increase the roll stiffness up front? With the Miata's dual a arm suspension camber was well controlled, plus the weight transfer was quite different. Have to keep in kind this is not an autocross vehicle and the perfect rotation, dartiness, and stiffness that benefits one dodging cones is not always the recipe for someone enjoying a drive up a mountain side on a sunny Sunday.

As far as the bumps are concerned, what detriment is there to running AM bumps? I know the plan is never to run out of travel, but when there is a solid month with uneven ice on the roads sometimes plans don't always pan out. It seems you are implying it being used too frequently as a bandaid. I was intending on using it as a last resort, not an every drive component of the suspension.

Thanks to everyone helping to flesh out my understanding and how to reach my goals...even though it is 6 months away at the earliest.

Careful, this guy thought DZ101s on a supercharged miata was a good idea for the trackday at the convention this year.

IMO, your planned setup should be just dandy. I'm most of the way there myself (with similar usage goals), I'm using the BASF bumpstops that come with the various shock boot kits these days and a progress front bar with stock rear. Maybe I'll get konis next year, we'll see. Having recently driven both stock front and progress front on the track, I find the bigger front bar to make a HUGE improvement. Perhaps the objective limits of the car are a bit lower now than with a stock front bar, but it is certainly easier to explore them. I had a ton of fun at the convention trackday, and i definitely like the bigger front bar for long highway trips.

It was that or corded RS3s (since they were OOS)... Hard to make 2,500 miles on tires with no tread... In the rain

http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/61073-handling-brakes-faq-what-your-chassis-telling-you.html#post835494

@MCarp22, you really run a stock rear bar and an adjustable front bar? I hate to be the bearer of news on this one, but that is making the car understeer more. That straight line stability is improved and you are keen on it, but in actuality, the car is rotating worse.

Good?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeBgeDcXqbg&feature=player_detailpage#t=177s

You may have done something to influence that.

It is physics, it does not change, it has been around longer than all of us and will remain the same until none of us are here to bicker about it anymore.

With a FR, put on a bigger front bar and smaller or no rear bar.

With a FF, put on a bigger rear bar and smaller or no front bar.

I didn't invent physics or laws or gravity or forces. I just live by them.

Sure, i've added front grip by not using the sidewalls as my contact patch.

You are trying to correct something which needs corrected by hurting another component of your chassis.

There are other ways to utilize the tire contact patch of the strut-based Sentra besides putting a larger front bar on a car that already wants to under steer.

First off, I apologize if this is a thread jack.

I am still learning the factors influencing and fundamentals about over/understeer and am curious about your thoughts on both the Progress front sway and the Progress rear sway being ran at the same time. This is on my car at the moment and I feel it needs to change, just wondering what to swap and what to leave on the car.

It is definitely not a thread jack, it is exactly what the OP is talking about doing.

1) Unless you have a track-only vehicle and/or are a very good driver, remove the Progress front sway bar. Replace it with the stock unit.

2) Leave on the Progress rear sway bar. Set it on soft or medium.

3) Be happy.

I am not smart nor experienced enough to debate all of this with Kyle, Nathan (wnwright), and Mike (McCarp). All of those guys plus the OP can talk suspension right over my thick-skulled head.

I did a tiny bit of research.....and know for a fact that plenty of the experts with our chassis say to set up your car as I indicate above for street usage or for a non-expert driver at the track.

If the Progress front sway bar was appropriate for me on the street (and an occasional-rare track outing), it would already be installed on my car. I intentionally omitted it from my very thorough and solid-budget suspension-plan (*). (No ES bushings either....but I digress.)

I am with Kyle.

Why? Because smart suspension-savvy guys said so.

2-cents.

Shawn B

(*)

Hypercoil Gen II springs
CSK's - Spec V Yellow fronts/B13 Red rears
Koni bumpstops
OEM Nissan boots
Shawn B OEM extended-stud top-hats
Superpro (Whiteline) caster bushings
Progress rear sway bar (medium setting)
OEM Nissan front sway bar
Progress front lower control arm brace
Cusco front strut tower bar
Ocototat/B.I.B. 3-point rear strut tower brace
IKEA brace
Stephens fender braces
100% 2-part catalytic foamed chassis, side rails, cross-rail under seats, front rails, A-B-C pillars, and the channel around the roof.

That Nissan OEM front sway bar was intentional.