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Thread: cheap B14 options

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Posts: 11-20 of 30
2012-08-28 01:43:48
#11
I think Hank tried a front 200SX SE sway bar and it was the same thing and disconnected the front and it was better. I did not have a ride in his car and I have yet to disconnect my front bar but I will soon.

This is no surprise since we follow the basic principle of stiffen the opposite end that is sliding. In the case of the terminal understeer in the beam-based vehicles, stiffen the rear (or loosen the front in extreme cases such as, beam).
2012-08-28 01:56:12
#12
Regardless,I will probably remove the front bar.
2012-08-28 03:28:26
#13
Originally Posted by eggman
Originally Posted by hammerin
I'm not sure you were aware of it, but I have gr2 's with cut springs on the SEL's front. It took the front down about 1/2". The rear has Tein basics. GR2 's with untouched stock springs is what I had on before, and honestly there was much difference on the street. Disconnect the front bar and you'll have about cheapest lowered setup you can have. Just don't tell anybody or they'll flame your ass.


damn,thats crazy,hank...I just sent you a pm about your suspension setup,since I rode in your car on the street and track in ohio.

Then I look here and see this post
So you just cut one coil off in front, or what?
I thought I sold you some B13 front springs to try? maybe that was someone else

this car is a 200sx se so it may not have a front or rear swaybar from the factory.
I will actually have the car in my possession in a few days...I was just trying to get the jump on this.


Yes, one coil off the bottom. It lowered it about 1/2". I wouldn't take any more off than that. Make sure the end of the coil that you cut gets seated in the notch out part of the strut seat. When you release tension with the spring compressor, make sure it's seated correctly.

I know cut springs aren't ideal, but you rode in my car...it ain't too bad.
2012-08-28 03:34:04
#14
Originally Posted by hammerin
Originally Posted by eggman
Originally Posted by hammerin
I'm not sure you were aware of it, but I have gr2 's with cut springs on the SEL's front. It took the front down about 1/2". The rear has Tein basics. GR2 's with untouched stock springs is what I had on before, and honestly there was much difference on the street. Disconnect the front bar and you'll have about cheapest lowered setup you can have. Just don't tell anybody or they'll flame your ass.


damn,thats crazy,hank...I just sent you a pm about your suspension setup,since I rode in your car on the street and track in ohio.

Then I look here and see this post
So you just cut one coil off in front, or what?
I thought I sold you some B13 front springs to try? maybe that was someone else

this car is a 200sx se so it may not have a front or rear swaybar from the factory.
I will actually have the car in my possession in a few days...I was just trying to get the jump on this.


Yes, one coil off the bottom. It lowered it about 1/2". I wouldn't take any more off than that. Make sure the end of the coil that you cut gets seated in the notch out part of the strut seat. When you release tension with the spring compressor, make sure it's seated correctly.

I know cut springs aren't ideal, but you rode in my car...it ain't too bad.


perfect,thanks.
It will make the car not look like a rocket taking off,but not sacrifice too much ride.Just what I need .This is a temporary daily,so I am not looking to spend much on it.
2012-08-28 03:36:16
#15
Originally Posted by eggman
Regardless,I will probably remove the front bar.


Try it with the bar first and then disconnect an end link and see what you think. If you like it with, it won't be much of a hassle to reconnect it. Remove the the whole thing if you like it without. I would have taken the whole thing off if I didn't have to uninstall the whiteline brace and disconnect the cat. I got lazy.
Last edited by hammerin hank on 2012-08-28 at 12-36-12.
2012-08-28 03:45:18
#16
wont it bang around down there disconnected?
Should I tie it up or something?
2012-08-28 12:35:21
#17
Originally Posted by eggman
wont it bang around down there disconnected?
Should I tie it up or something?


Ya, I turned it back and tied the end link to the bar. I removed the nut, bushings and washers and stuck them in the glovebox for save keeping.

Disconnect both sides of the bar at the same time. It will make getting the end link out of the control arm hole a whole lot easier. Tie one up, re-bolt the other and you're done.
Last edited by hammerin hank on 2012-08-28 at 12-42-42.
2012-08-28 14:09:21
#18
I'm confused so u guys are useing this method to lower ur car more?what advantage and disadvantages you guys getting?i just Nvr herd anyone taking the swaybar off,inform me!lol
2012-08-28 14:29:31
#19
Originally Posted by n/asr20
I'm confused so u guys are useing this method to lower ur car more?what advantage and disadvantages you guys getting?i just Nvr herd anyone taking the swaybar off,inform me!lol


Helps with understeer not lowering the car.
2012-08-28 15:24:35
#20
Originally Posted by n/asr20
I'm confused so u guys are useing this method to lower ur car more?what advantage and disadvantages you guys getting?i just Nvr herd anyone taking the swaybar off,inform me!lol


This is a simple principal that was discovered about cars in the 50s and 60s about stuff.

The front end slides all the time in a B14 that is stock or relatively stock with a beam from the factory.

To combat this, there are two things you can do, stiffen the rear or loosen the front. (I think I said this a few times too many already)

1/4" of total rear toe-in is too much for a FF car, even if the Nissan engineers were so worried for our little brain containers. I appreciate the thought, but no thank you.

Perhaps a read of this thread can further explain some other common relationships in handling and chassis' rather than me try to explain it in my language which you may or may not understand.
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