Thread: Whiteline bar installed today

already on there.

Where the beam is, relative to the fenders is not a usefully alignment measurement. It's how the wheels align with each other, that's the important stuff. And yes the beam is travelling on an arc and will move laterally when moving up and down. The zero thrust angle is a static number. I'm sure it's not zero when the car is going through the motions. The bottom line is, if you're serious about making a beam car turn, the panhard is the best solution to date. I'm sorry I didn't have 2J do it for me.

I honestly don't care where the wheels sit in relation to quarter panels myself too. Reason it is used, it's because it's a good static number, but any body damage will mess it up indeed. Now setting the beam up in relation to the front is definitely the goal but much harder to setup to measure the difference.

Hank remember how I was telling you I used strings to do my alignment and it was off, well I figured out why. I followed the advice of using the center caps of each wheel to center the string stands. While it might work great on other cars, with beam shift on our cars it completely messed up my front alignment. Next time I setup the strings again I will just alight the front and back stands against each other .

2J's alignment transformed my car. There's no possible way I could have gotten it to the level of precision they did without the equipment Joe is using. If the equipment wasn't $20K+, I'd go out and buy the setup myself and start doing race alignments up here in the northeast. You should seriously look at finding someone with the equipment and know how to do it properly. My car is such a pleasure to drive on the street now. With the zero toe all the way around, you can actually feel the lack of drag it has in a straight line.

Hooray physics!!!!

Laser equipment is nice, but if you lurk through the old forum and Steve Foltz's posts, you will see him actually speaking against them a good bit. Main reason is wheel runnout. Your able to account for it with mechanical ways of checking your alignment. Look through Spec V FSM for rear suspension, Nissan still says to use the manual way of checking the alignment.

Measure rear distance of two tires and front distance, subtract them, push the car 12 feet, do it again, etc. So in 2000+ years Nissan still was teaching it's technicians to use the manual way of checking the front and rear toe. With rear beamed cars, once you lower them the laser alignment machines became useless for measuring rear toe. The machine will tell you you have 30* toe in one side and 5* on other side. When in reality it is a pretty even 17* on each side.

2JRacing > Steve Foltz, with regards to chassis setup, is all I'm gonna say.

You think what you want and do what you want, Vadim.

I wont argue those points at all. One is a hobbyist one does it for living and actually uses it for living. I do like 2JR products for this reason, they find out what's wrong with the car, as they use or make an item they start selling it to others to use it too.

The point I was getting to is, in my personal experience, and what Steve has been saying for years; once you get the car on the laser alignment rack the rear end toe looks whack! You have to be very careful if you are bending or torching the beam to 0 toe. Since the alignment rack thinks you have more toe in on one side vs the other due to the beam shifting you will over correct it on one side. Then if you ever actually center your beam, your alignment is going to be whack.

Now the alignment rack I was on, we actually pushed the car back and worth, so it accounted for some wheel runout, but still it showed me having .08* on left side and .030* on other side of toe in, with -11* of thrust angle. Putting my alignment plates to it, I just see 1/8" toe in.

I tried this method and was able to get whipping 1mm restored, I think B15's links have much tighter tolerances thus gains are not as relevant. Time to get/make an adjustable link.

Here's one issue with the QT link.




The adjustment of the link to bring the beam back to the centre is just being taken up by this bush....

Would a poly bush work here or would it cause binding?