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Thread: Brake pedal goes to floor after brake job

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Posts: 31-40 of 48
2012-03-01 19:23:07
#31
The only thing i can think of is that your master is leaking or wasn't bench bled after it ran out but you are saying it never ran out of liquid.

Just a tip... nobody will tell you this, but the master cyl has the same thread holes as the flywheel bolts... so if you want a quick way to bench bleed it I have a quick way to do it efficiently.
2012-03-01 20:30:43
#32
Originally Posted by Meeners
The only thing i can think of is that your master is leaking or wasn't bench bled after it ran out but you are saying it never ran out of liquid.


Lol, my bench bleeding method is my fingers on the ports and pressing in on the piston =p Screw those stupid lines and fittings, the hoses never want to stay in the reservoir.

Originally Posted by morgans432
. Brake boosters dont usually go bad.


A bad brake booster would cause a stiff pedal*
2012-03-01 21:41:19
#33
i run a line from the bleed screw to a clear container of clean brake fluid. bleed from longest line to shortest line never letting the mc go dry untill no bubble appear in the container of fluid...
2012-03-02 01:15:50
#34
Originally Posted by jjkamikaze
i run a line from the bleed screw to a clear container of clean brake fluid. bleed from longest line to shortest line never letting the mc go dry untill no bubble appear in the container of fluid...


Im gonna have to try this out on the next car I do an MC on.
2012-03-02 01:31:49
#35
Here's a pic of the front passenger caliper, from the underside of the car.




The calipers I bought were the exact same, so idk how I could have put the on the wrong way.
2012-03-02 01:58:01
#36
bleeder screw on the bottom.... and also note how the brake line doesn't sit correctly into the caliper to keep it from moving

Take note of the bleeder screw on these nx calipers
2012-03-02 02:45:19
#37
Attach a clear plastic hose that is ok to use with brake fluid to your bleeding valve and make sure it drains up high into a bottle for your used brake fluid. You will need to watch for any bubbles, bleed each caliper (using the order talked about here) until there are no more bubbles coming out of each one. The key is to position the line so the bubbles want to escape to a point higher than anywhere on the entire brake system. Sometimes you really just need to bleed bleed bleed like someone has said already. Also even if you think you've bled the caliper very well there really still may be air in the lines. That's why it's very helpful to be able to actually see when you purge the bubbles out of the line.
Last edited by wildmane on 2012-03-02 at 02-50-05.
2012-03-02 03:08:13
#38
or find someone with a vaccula. those things are badass. supposedly speed bleeders work but i have never felt like risking trying them and having them disappoint me
2012-03-02 03:35:11
#39
Originally Posted by morgans432
bleeder screw on the bottom.... and also note how the brake line doesn't sit correctly into the caliper to keep it from moving
And we have a winner!
2012-03-02 03:51:42
#40
winner winner chicken dinner
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