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Thread: Csk builders

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Posts: 41-50 of 141
2011-07-12 01:29:35
#41
Originally Posted by veilside180sx
More than anyone would spend on a B series, that I've seen. Just the dampers w/o any attachments are $3k/pair.



Yummmmm, aluminum bodied dampers are so sexy!! This is where you start when you want to start from scratch and actually are a bargain at 3K a pair!!

2011-07-12 01:30:03
#42
Originally Posted by veilside180sx
The damper that would be used would be the 8610-1436 Race. All 8610's are the Race model (at least that I have ever seen), as the differentiation is from the older Sport Models from the 8611 line. The Sport models were linear valved rather than digressive.

The 8610-1436 is basically an 8611-1257 set at 2-3 clicks of compression, and adjustable rebound.


Originally Posted by wes
That clarification should help a lot of people! The Spec V yellow inserts for the front are also 8610's, obviously not the race variant with two way adjustability.


Thank you for clarifying this.

Just for the information and clarity of the thread, these are the B15 Yellow SPORT:





Originally Posted by veilside180sx


The only 2 setups I would bother with is either of these two.

Street Car:

Maxima or Spec V Fronts (I know the specs for the Maxima since I had a set)

Personally I wouldn't run over a 440-450 lb spring on either of these dampers, and even with that I think it's a hair underdamped. On that same token I wouldn't run much over a 400 lb rear spring on a non-revalved B14 shock.

Race Car/Auto-X/Mix

8610-1436 Race or 8611-1257 Race depending on budget

From what I recall the set that Will had done with his old car looked good, so I'd say you are just fine Shawn.


Is there anywhere that gives damping specs for the different versions of the struts? Am I correct in believing that only Koni Yellow SPORT or RACE are available? They no longer make the Reds?

I have been researching this for a long time, but I just built my first set of yellows for OEM sized Hypercoil Gen 2s on my NX:















Last edited by Will on 2011-07-12 at 01-37-49.
2011-07-12 01:46:28
#43
I still like the Koni sleeves better as they are smaller in overall diameter than the GC and have a step on the inside of them, when I built mine we machined a hat that fit inside the step and centered the sleeve over the housing. But I agree the GC parts are of good quality as well. The issue is that GC can be hit or miss with parts as you well know....

Also the Spec V yellow's can be re-valved to race by Koni if you already have them.

My B14 was pretty darn good on just Spec V yellow's with 350 300 springs. For a dedicated track day or time trial car I would go with race 8610's or 8611's but for a dual purpose car the Spec V Yellow's were pretty darn good.
2011-07-12 02:02:06
#44
Without making this to over the top what would be the simplest one could go with a CSK set up?
2011-07-12 02:13:23
#45
You know, the more I think about it, does Koni not have a step by step manual on how to swap out inserts?? (And no, this is not a attempt at undermining Veilside as quiet frankly the stock housing are just rubbish in comparison to Veilside and only a few $$$ more......which to me, is added insurance for such a crucial piece of the car. If your going to do it, do it right once instead of doing it wrong twice)

The reason why I ask is because we recently swapped out inserts on a MR2 and quiet frankly, it was rather straight forward and not as complicated as people are making it out to be be as far as swapping out inserts are concerned (sans poking a hole in the bottom to drain out all the fluid as per B chassis).

And no, I am not talking about shortened bodies. I am talking just simple inserts here.
2011-07-12 02:15:37
#46
Does anyone think the rebound damping on the B15 Yellow Sports may be too high for the progressive 300/200 spring rates of the Hypercos?
2011-07-12 02:17:47
#47
Originally Posted by SE-Rican
Without making this to over the top what would be the simplest one could go with a CSK set up?


My personal opinion

Simplest would just be to swap inserts for Yellows (non shortened)

As far as shortened is concerned:
- Purchase a set of Koni (Spec Vs and above)
- Get a set of housings made up (recommend picking up a new set)
- Pick up a set of GC coils (could get used to save on money)
- Camber plates (optional.........you can also make the upper mounting holes for the 17mm bolts oval as to allow lateral movement for added camber)
And have fun!!
2011-07-12 02:28:14
#48
Originally Posted by Boostlee
My personal opinion

Simplest would just be to swap inserts for Yellows (non shortened)

As far as shortened is concerned:
- Purchase a set of Koni (Spec Vs and above)
- Get a set of housings made up (recommend picking up a new set)
- Pick up a set of GC coils (could get used to save on money)
- Camber plates (optional.........you can also make the upper mounting holes for the 17mm bolts oval as to allow lateral movement for added camber)
And have fun!!


This is where you are at for 99% of our community and that includes you ShawnB. Rides better than Hyperco imo. Something like 325/300 and you can run stock sways. You can do it soup to nuts for $1200.
2011-07-12 02:34:16
#49
I think I am sold on which direction I want to take.
2011-07-12 02:41:38
#50
Originally Posted by Benito
This is where you are at for 99% of our community and that includes you ShawnB. Rides better than Hyperco imo. Something like 325/300 and you can run stock sways. You can do it soup to nuts for $1200.



Except out of the 99%, about 95% still think this setup is too expensive and then turn around and buy (used LOL) D2, Ksport, Megan, etc.............

And those 95% know who they are

A $1200 OTS yellow setup WILL BE LIGHT YEARS ahead of anything in the 0-$2300 price range in most (if not ALL) cases...........
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