Thread: energy suspension motor mount inserts

I never said i like buying from jgy. i said that i had their dogbone mount and it was 40 dollars. That is all. And i apoligize for "thread-jacking" . I meant no disrespect, and did not even think about it. and btw thank you for the search tip

pat

I mix and match poly bushings brands throughout the suspension on my car. I have Whiteline, Energy Suspension, and Prothane all with no problems. Just don't use the ones that fit inside of the factory rubber. You want to replace the whole shebang. That said replace as much rubber with polyurethane as you can, Remember to grease every thing down really well. It is a great cheap mod, that really gets you up close with your suspension. It will help your trans last longer and your suspension do it's job better.

IF anyone uses the ES inserts use them ONLY with brand new OEM mounts, that's the only way they are worth using. My track car has Prothanes on the tranny & passenger mount and ES inserts in new mounts on the crossmember & dogbone. Vibration is tolerable and engine stays put in the bay.

If I were doing it for a daily, I'd go Prothane and find someone who could shave them down a little bit (so that the only point of contact with the mounts on the frame/crossmember are the metal bushing, like a stock mount), which should make them quite a bit more liveable.

Mine are in my rally car, so I never notice vibration from the engine...

I have ES inserts with used/old rubber, and it's fine for me. I have them on tranny, Dog bone, and rear mount. The dog bone and pass side mount from ES are solid. I haven't been able to do my pass side yet. Don't have access to a press.

I can't agree with that 100%, they're effective with "good enough" OEM mounts. Sure if they're original B13 mounts or in really tough shape, then its not gonna do shit. But if the car's seen a set of new ones in the last 20 years since new, it may suit his needs. I used inserts on 7-8 year old mounts on my U13 and that really improved the precision of the shifting The OEM were in good shape, and that's only a DD, it worked well. Speaking of shifting, the rear linkage shift mount bushing IMHO is a must have.

But +1 on not solid mounts F or R, man that makes me feel like one of those 1970's beds in a cheap motel - where did I put that quarter?

Prothane.

I will add that if you just do the 2 cross member mounts it's not too bad on the vibration but still limits the front and back movement. Keep the right and left mounts stock. Make sure they're still in good condition, of course. This was written about in SCC back when they did the SE-R project car.

Yes it does, its my DD/Autox/Track TT car now since April 2007. That setup works very well.

True they're effective with good enough OEMs dependent on driver tolerance. Here in AZ OEM mounts tend to crap out faster, thus using brand new ones out here. I've had good enough & brand new with the inserts and in the hot summer months the good enoughs were straining to keep up. In mild to moderate climates good enoughs should fit the bill for a daily. Agreed on the shift mount bushing, major improvement using the prothane.