Thread: Calling B13s that are LOW...

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2011-05-27 21:49:55

#51

dphillipsB13 Online/offline status of dphillipsB13 is unknown

I am The Stig

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Here is Russells build with pics...
The story of my '92 Sentra E part 2 - SR20 Forum

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FWD, lol!
My Build thread...
http://www.sr20-forum.com/members-rides/29796-how-build-proper-91-nissan-sentra-se-r.html

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2011-12-18 07:13:16

#52

hmong_b13

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Originally Posted by Russell

Hey guys, I just caught this thread. Thanks to Snail for posting. I have extended the front control arms on my green car by 1/2" to relieve the axle bind issue. I then had to extend the rear arms just so the car did not look goofy. I extended the rears by 3/4" which actually made the front and rear track pretty much equal. In case you have not noticed, the front track is wider than the rear on the B-13 from the factory.

I discovered the axle bind issue with my race car (92 SE-R) by running too low at Daytona. Going around the banking causes the suspension to compress further than just riding down the road. Throw in a few dips for good measure and presto chango you now have dumpster fodder for an axle. I destroyed and axle in 3 laps one time!!!! Needless to say, my race car is only about an inch lower than stock right now and I had the axles shortened by 1/2".

When you are shortening an axle, it is the shaft between the inner and outer joints that needs to be shortened. The company I sent mine to took the axle apart, machined a new "c" clip groove on one end and then took 1/2" of material off that same end. Apparently the splines for the joint are long enough for them to remove that much material and be able to put it all back together.

I did not go that route with the green car. I opted to extend the control arms instead. Either way will get the job done. None of this has anything to do with roll centers or proper suspension geometry. It will just allow you to drive your car at a low ride height without destroying your axles. Just remember, the extreme angle that the axles have to operate under will also accelerate wear on the joints and the boots. Your mileage may vary....

Yes, you can test this, I did on my race car and on my green car.

YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS WITH THE WHEELS ON THE GROUND!!!!

1, Measure your ride height from axle to fender while the car is on level ground and the suspension is settled.

2, Put the car on jack stands and remove the wheels.

3, Remove the front strut assemblies.

4, Remove the springs from the struts.

5, Replace the struts without the springs back in the car.

6, Remove the axle nut

7, Use your jack to compress the suspension to the measurement you took in step 1.

8, See if you can move the axle in and out (plunge depth). Measure how much travel you have.

9, Move the suspension through a range of motion and see the difference in plunge travel at different suspension heights. It is fun to see how it all works!

If you don't have any travel in step 8, congratulations! You have axle bind, and if you have been driving like that, chances are your axle is pretty unhappy. Especially if you have a turbo monster under your hood!!

At the very minimum, I would say you want at least 1/8" of plunge at ride height, more would be better since you will run out of plunge as the suspension compresses further. Think about going around a turn at speed and then hitting a bump. What happens? You need room for that.

The modifications I made gave me a significant amount of plunge to play with at my chosen ride height.

I hope that this helps.

Please understand that, to the dismay of some, I went for stance over performance on my green car. However, I was running the shortened Koni coilover set up from my race car. I had 650lbin springs in front and 600lbin springs in the rear. The high spring rate allowed me to run that low without bottoming out over bumps. I drove from Orlando, Fl to Austin, Tx like that without any issues!!! Don't try this on cheapo ebay coils that don't have spring rates on them!!! I speak from experience here as I tried a set of those cheapo shit springs and they are garbage!!!

100_2991 by Russell McMullan, on Flickr

did you extended(front) both side or only the driver side?

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2011-12-18 07:18:43

#53

nismonx2000 Online/offline status of nismonx2000 is unknown

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lol for the amount of work it takes just to have a lower b13.. go buy a honda.

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1991 NX2000 DD/project

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2011-12-18 13:28:55

#54

Mr SE-R

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Just simple stuff:

Eibach Prokits
KYB AGX
Addco rear Sway bar

Last edited by Mr SE-R on 2011-12-18 at 13-32-08.

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PEACE!
'93 Sentra SE-R
'99 Sentra SE-L
http://www.cardomain.com/member/mrserb13/

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2011-12-18 16:15:13

#55

hmong_b13

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Originally Posted by nismonx2000

lol for the amount of work it takes just to have a lower b13.. go buy a honda.

rather die than driving a honda lol...will all u need to do is to extended the control arms or shortened the axle..not that much work..

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2011-12-18 18:53:03

#56

nismonx2000 Online/offline status of nismonx2000 is unknown

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thats a LOT of work... what are you smoking? its not like they just sell kits for that, u gotta fully fabricate that kind of stuff. and its so not even worth it cuz the end result is just a lower slower car that u gotta baby around. lol so much work for so little in the end...idk why ppl waste time trying to lower these cars.. if u want a low car buy a car that has better suspension for being lowered: lexus, honda, vw, bmw, toyota, mazda...list goes on and on....

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1991 NX2000 DD/project

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2011-12-18 18:54:22

#57

nismonx2000 Online/offline status of nismonx2000 is unknown

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Originally Posted by Mr

Just simple stuff:

Eibach Prokits
KYB AGX
Addco rear Sway bar

its really simple to have binding axles, smack bump stops, and smash oil pans too. but why do it to look cool?

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1991 NX2000 DD/project

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2011-12-18 19:32:58

#58

hmong_b13

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Originally Posted by nismonx2000

fabricating is not a problem the only problem is know where to extend it and actually its not a lot of work if you know what your doing and have the supplies ready because the only thing you have to do is to cut and extend, not like you have to change the whole arm to some kind of different kind of arm. also yes i know that lexus, bmw, honda, mazda, etc. cars can be slammed to the ground but that's what you see everyday and a slammed b13 is what you dont see everyday. so im just trying to make something that people dont see everyday.

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2011-12-18 19:48:39

#59

hmong_b13

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haters gonna hate!!

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2011-12-18 20:24:09

#60

kaotekxe

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Originally Posted by Mr

Just simple stuff:

Eibach Prokits
KYB AGX
Addco rear Sway bar

Originally Posted by hmong_b13

haters gonna hate!!

from one low brotha to another. these 2 cars are fawking clean.

what are the wheel specs on the white b13?

Last edited by kaotekxe on 2011-12-18 at 20-39-40.

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FRESHKID GARAGE
[url]www.freshkidgarage.com[/url]
b13xe-r- carbon fiber whore
p10- avenir/slammed and stanced
b14- underconstruction
p11- slammed daily status

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