Even with camber bolts on my rear struts, I can't get more than -.05 degrees on my rear coilovers, and these bolts are suppose to be good to 3 degrees... Thoughts?
Looks like he was referring to the fronts, because I asked for 2~2.5 degrees negative camber up front, and I only got -1.8ish. I do remember him saying something about adjusting tophats and camber bolts and still only getting the described amount.
I have trouble getting camber too on stock. I think its a character of the platform.
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1991 NX - Stalking Horse - mild bolt-ons
1993 Sentra - my freinds 4 door SE-R VVL USDM Tsuru Sunny Supersaloon conversion in progress
2011 Forester XT - DD
"Everybody's got a plan... and then I punch them in the mouth." Mike Tyson
Ben- I would expect it to be difficult stock, not on coilovers with adjustable tophats that should feasibly give -3.0 degrees camber overall. I hear it's not a good idea to use aftermarket camber bolts up front, either. Kind of a catch 22.
My bud has wrx wagon takeoffs w/ tanabe springs on his FXT and its the same story. He's actually got static positive camber and there's nothing really he can do w/ that dumb suspension and big drop. The crash bolts only get you a little camber and its really 3* plus minus so you can get 1.5 in either direction... those things will slip anyway. I really think its a chassis level geometry problem.
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1991 NX - Stalking Horse - mild bolt-ons
1993 Sentra - my freinds 4 door SE-R VVL USDM Tsuru Sunny Supersaloon conversion in progress
2011 Forester XT - DD
"Everybody's got a plan... and then I punch them in the mouth." Mike Tyson
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Originally Posted by Cliff Ben- I would expect it to be difficult stock, not on coilovers with adjustable tophats that should feasibly give -3.0 degrees camber overall. I hear it's not a good idea to use aftermarket camber bolts up front, either. Kind of a catch 22.
You also want to make sure you get as much of the camber from the top mounts and not from the camber bolts. Too much from the camber bolts can lead to bind, and shorter damper life.
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