Thread: bleeding the braks with ABS

I decided to remove my brake callipers for rebuild and installed some fubarred ones. I did leave the brakefluidcable hanging loose a while and it leaked. Now I know I should prevent that, but how?

Also, I bleeded the brakes according the FSM and also didn't forget to bleed the master brake cylinder.

However, with engine turned off, no bubbles in the hose on the bleeder, pedal is firm.

I start engine, pedal goes all the way down. So I had to repeat bleeding.

Firm again. I drive 25 metres, pedal goes all the way down.

re-re-bleeding the brakes, with some swearing and wtfs

now it still won't brake after 3 bleeds.

I wonder, how can I make my life less crappy because I became to a point the set the car on fire and get another one, which doesn't solve anything.

Looking for good bleed tricks, since I don't have the vacuumpump, those are €140 overhere and I have no idea, I also couldn't find a bleeder on the ABS pump and I do not understand how it is possible there is no air seen in the brake fluid, starting engine, rebleed, there is more air?

you need to get the abs pump to run to work the air out of it.

not really sure how to do that on your car though

I wouldn't know how to make sure it is running. Running engine and ABS pump runs right? Even with the abs lamp on the dash lit, since I removed it's ECU?

I mean, I really don't see how that could be a problem, but I really would like to know.

Bleed your brakes again, this time start the car first. Thats what I do. seems to work for me.

BTW, Your english is better than some of the people on this board, lol.

lol.

How would a 'semi-professional', e.g. Mexican, garage accomplish this?

I understand it is a good idea, but man, what do I really need to do? From what I understand from FSM, they don't let the mechanics inhale exhaust fumes.

Make sure you put the replacement calipers on the correct side of the car. the bleeder must be facing upwards or else you'll never get the air out.

Although i feel silly to suggest it, its an easy mistake to make when you're frustrated and tired and want the car running.

Well yeah, I'm getting several answers here and there on fora and from friends and they all point in the same direction, repeat, repeat, repeat. Only the jacking up the car and removing the wheel and such, then driving for a while makes it very annoying.

I think it is safe to assume, there are only 2 ways, struggling on and bring the car to a garage.

And really, I'm gonna remove the ABS and get a Nx1600 master brake cylinder and want to get rid of the rear 'brake adjusters' since those valves are in the Nx1600 master brake cylinder and it will bleed pretty easy.

I will have some more moving pedal with the Nx1600 master brake cylinder I am told. And a lot less parts that could fail...

You did bleed all 4 wheels, right?

Do that until you get clean fluid at the cylinder and you should be ok.

I have never done anything special for the abs and never had an issue. If the pedal goes down you have air in the lines, keep bleeding. The front and rear are not completely independent you always need to bleed all 4 even if you are only working on 2.

All you need is a container with some fluid in the bottom and hose that extends down into that fluid. I use Austin Healy Sprite winshield washer containers, ( just because I had them ).

that is the point, I did get clean fluid 3 times in a row and all it did is after me having to put back the wheels and jack the car down, soft pedal results that make my cry

You should be able to bleed all 4 brakes without taking the wheels off.