Thread: Extended Lugs???

Here is the info for non-metric hardware. The graph says it all. It is significant.
http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionD/D48.pdf

Simple Machines/Mechanical Advantage 101 right there.


See Notes 1 and 2. Torque = KDP, but P (clamp load) is dependent upon "Tensile stress area". "Tensile Stress Area" depends upon pitch.

Tensile Stress Area = (Pi/4)(d-(0.9743/n)^2)
(where n=threads/inch)

I torque mine to 90 (ish) ft lbs.

I don't think the general population refers to an engineering website when torquing their lug nuts. Don't most manufacturers recommend basically the same torque specs? I own a few different brands of cars, and more than likely they don't all have the same pitch studs, and I just torque everything in the 80-90 ft/lb range, and haven't lost a wheel yet.

C

I refer to engineering websites when choosing number of twists on the twist tie for my bread bag.

Your girlfriend either has the patience of a saint, or just ignores your weirdness.

C

And Cliff made fun of me because I brought a torque wrench labeled "Wheels only" to the convention.

- Great feature.







- Lol.

3 seems to be standard...the wonderful knowledge you gain working at a bread factory lol

Bolt Torque Calculator - Engineers Edge Engineering Calculators

This calculator seems to imply that clamping force can be determined by only using two variables, that being torque and diameter of the fastner. Most charts and calculators seem to follow this same pattern.

What I'm seeing from the data in the chart you posted is that finer thread pitches will have a higher maximum clamping force, which I don't disagree with at all. But the graph doesn't show any different clamping force for same-diameter bolts with different thread pitches, just different diameters.

Now, I'm not arguing that it does, at an absolute level, exist as a factor, but what I'm reading seems to indicate that it falls into the noise of friction variation and certainly, in the case of lugnuts, the real world variation of even a calibrated torque wrench. In other words, you might find it an interesting exercise to figure out the difference, but it's not going to have a practical difference in how you tighten the wheel up.

Here's one for you though. Do you torque your wheels with the tire on the ground or in the air? If you do it on the ground, you're seeing variable forces from the weight of the vehicle acting unevenly on the studs. If you, for instance, tighten a lug nut to 80 lb/ft with the vehicle on the ground (use the lowest nut), and then jack the car up and hold the wheel in place (do this with a rear wheel with the handbrake), you can see a noticable additional rotation before the wrench clicks.

I've worked with racing teams that required all torqueing of wheels be done with the wheel off the ground. I've worked with others that just hit it with an impact until it "sounded right" too

I would also guess that any Titan studs would have to be stronger, or certainly as strong, as a Sentra stud.

I googled it just for Chriscar, a Titan weighs 5,038 pounds. Our cars weigh approximately 2,500'ish. Gotta be stronger OEM studs on a Titan.

That is a very appealing hoe-e-m option.

EDIT: That is also discussed in this thread, as posted on the first page.http://www.sr20-forum.com/sentra-se-r/41756-extended-wheel-studs.html




I'm going with both.


Speaking of wheel studs, lug nuts....and how to put them on?

Can I divert us to who makes a quality, solid, reliable torque wrench for all this hardware we are discussing? Preferably good bang for the buck, with a no-nonsense warranty. Lowes Kobalt? Sears Craftsman? Other?