Thread: Extended Lugs???

Got my ARPs in yesterday, but no chance to do anything with them yet. Spent the evening taking the plasma cutter to the front end.

Hoping to reinstall the suspension next Wed, so hopefully I'll get them in the hubs before then.

How many come?

I don't have any experience with them, but I agree with you and think that their warning is probably just to cover their ass. They should be okay to use with spacers.

10?

I don't see any metric sizes at all listed on Moroso's site for wheel studs, much less anything with the proper diameter, pitch and knurl.

Agreed i thought that was odd too. However i got the hubs fron skysheperd who installed them and thats what he remembers them being so im not too sure beyond that!

So yah the hints on installing studs go like this.

For the front, you can install the studs without removing anything except the wheel. You will also either have to completely remove the metal brake rotor shield, drill/cut/grind an access hole in it, or get lucky and find a section in the shield that allows for stud access.

This should make installation go very quickly.

Take the wheel off and turn the steering wheel so you get good access to the back of the knuckle. Look for a gap in the metal rotor shield where you'll be able to see the backs of the studs. If you can't find a gap good enough, you'll have to make your own with tin snips, a drill bit, or just remove the metal shields entirely. Who keeps those anyway?

Once you have visual on the back of one of the studs, find your largest hammer and a lug nut you don't care about. Thread the lug nut into the end of the stud enough to engage a handful of threads but leave some of the lug nut hanging off the end of the stud so when you hit it with the hammer you won't ruin the threads on the stud. (If you don't care about protecting the stud then you can forgo the lug nut trick.) Whack the lug nut once, hard. You don't want to tap the studs out, you want to blow them out with one or two hard hits. The wheel bearing takes the brunt of the force if you fail to drive the stud out in one hit, so the less hits the better.

Now you will have the stud dangling in the hub. You should be able to slide it out through the access spot in the back of the rotor shield. If you don't have enough room, you might find that taking a Dremel and grinding down a little on the knuckle is in order. Usually you can just wiggle things around and you'll be fine.

Turn the hub and do the same for the other studs.

Once all the studs are out, you can put the new studs in one by one. They can be a bit harder to put in than the old ones were to remove because they are longer and give you less wiggle room, but they should go in without any issues. If you're having trouble, just make the access hole larger. I was able to do mine without grinding on the cast iron knuckle at all, but that steel shield section pressed onto the knuckle did need to go.

To "press" the studs in, you can use an air hammer to hammer them in from the back which I've done once and it worked fine. Or you might be able to get a large C-clamp and use that which I haven't tried. The method I've used over and over was to just pull the stud from the front into the place in the old knurl slots and then using a bunch of washers or other spacers, just tighten a lug nut onto the stud to pull it into place. You can even use the wheel as your spacer if you have to. It will take some time, but you can use this method and you should be fine.


For the back, I believe you can use similar methods to the front to get the job job, but I don't know 100% for sure. When I did my rear studs I had the hubs off the car. If you find that you can get access to the studs from behind on the rear hubs then it's likely that removing the rear brake rotor will be all you need to do to get access. If that doesn't work for some reason the rear hubs are easy to remove. You'll just need a large socket (30mm? I know it is smaller than the one for the front) to get the axle nut off, and the hub should come off with hand strength.

I'm on the NISMOs and have been for years.

Is this for the B13? Why so much more in the rear?


What do you think is so bad about them? Mine have hundreds of track miles on them with no issues that weren't my own fault.

I think regarding the spinning, that's why it's important to pay attention to the knurl diameter numbers. You want something that's 14.35mm (offhand), and a lot of off brands seem to be 14mm.

Regarding the Nismo studs. I have no first hand expereince with them, but some people have seen what appear to be abnormally high failure rates with them.

Personally I'm very suspicious of anything that claims to be "Nismo" that didn't come straight from a Nissan dealer (and sometimes even then...).

My problem with the Nismo studs is that they're not really all that much longer than stock.

The ARP studs are waay longer than stock and nobody seems to have any issues with them, so why mess around?

You'll have to read here for the intimate details: http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/13333-arp-extended-studs.html

And here for more opinions (takes a long time to load): http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=177373

When searching for info on the Nismo studs after personally sheering over a dozen of them I also found other threads on other forums where people posted pictures of all four or five studs failing at once with predictable results on an auto-x course. The amount of bad "press" I found on these studs was eye opening and finally gave me my answer as to why I kept going through mine like $2 whores. I've never had a problem with stock studs, even with the same spacer arrangement, lug nuts, and wheels that I ran on the Nismo studs. The Nismo studs failed all day long. I think I went through 15 of them in 5 years? All purchased from Greg Vogel so I'm pretty confident they weren't knock-offs. The ARP studs have been rock solid for 2+ years now. I won't even ride in a car with Nismo studs anymore. They are scary bad. They are utterly horrible. The few having good luck with them (you and Andreas Miko and I'm sure some others) must have gotten some from an unusually good batch made over a decade ago? I don't know. That's my best theory.

Maybe the 50mm ones are the horrible ones, and the 60mm ones are made to much better standards? Mine were all the 50mm variety. Nismo also makes a 60mm size. Maybe that's it? *shrug* I wouldn't place my safety in the hands of those things.