Thread: B13=n14? + suspension question on CSK´s and more...

So, i´ve done my research, alot in fact, but it seems to be alot of info to go trough and scatered around...

1- I have a n14 2.0 GTI, that in theory is equal to the b13 nx2000 and 1.6 US, EU version is called 100nx GTI or 1.6, my question is, does the nx/sentra b13 and n14 have the same inerent suspension travel problem? or is especific for the sentras?

2- Does the 3" travel is from bump stop to top of shock, or from top of the shock to bottom of spring assembly plate?

3- I noted that there´s differences in EU and US rear suspensions since EU uses 51mm struts and US 45mm, so the part number for the rear koni special reds are 86-2464 for EU and 86-2465 for US, fronts are same, so 86-2463... is this correct?

4-The only difference between red´s and yellow spec v´s are the type of adjustability, being the spec v external and so more practical, valving is the same... being the price quite close, the spec v´s are more logical buy... but since the spec v´s(8610-1409Sport) only exist in 45mm o/d housings you´ll need a b13 front housing to put it on the back?

5- What about sprung weight? Is it relevant? Does the stock inner guts of the oem shock weight as much as a full koni insert? it seems to me that is a bit more... but maybe the gc coilies weight less then the stock springs and strut perch... this is just a tought, mere detaill, not relevant for street use...

Hope you understand my english...

the b15 koni yellow inserts will work on the front of the b13/15 suspension but the rear seems to be a mystery for the b13, the b14 can be made to work, wes did a great writeup

I believe the 3" limitation is between the bottom of the strut shaft and the bottom of the strut housing. There is less than 3" (you hope—usually 2") between the bump stop up top and the top the strut housing. There is possibly a little over 3" between the strut top hat and the top of the strut housing.

Greetings fellow Med-nissaner!

0. How about your 3 teams in the semis of Europa League?

Regarding the questions...

1. YES. Exact same suspension, exact same dimensions. Minimal differences that are detailed in the FSM.

2. Bumpstop to top of shock body. Essentially, the shiny shock shaft you may see if there is no boot on the shock.

3. CHECK your rear shocks first. The 51mm struts are RARE even in Europe. In Greece, I have seen them only twice (!!!) in over 200 cars. Most of tehm were 45mm.

4. Red and Yellow are DIFFERENT. Not only the adjust-ability but the Yellows are damped higher than the reds. Top of range for Reds are middle for Yellows. Again, check the struts you may have available. Most are 45mm. Or check the junkyard for 1.6 struts.

What prices did you find for the Red & Yellow Konis? Where?

5. As you said, small difference that is made up by the exchange of narrow coilover springs instead of the bi stock ones.

Cheers

0. I just wish we were as good at economy as we are at football... hahahahahaha... as you might know we´re being "robbed" as you guys(Greeks) and funny thing is next it´s the rest of the Europe, and then US... but yea it´s nice to see our teams win... hope Benfica wins... ahahahahahh

1.On the context of suspension, my rear shocks are indeed 45mm, so i´ll need b15 fronts for the rear coilover setup?

2.First i´m going to poly bush allround, using energy allround, any cons? Do they squeek?(i´ve heard and ride in a miata with poly bushes that seemed an old horse carriage)

3. You greek guys have any input on strong-flex bushes? Are they any good? They are made in china... about the same price has energy´s.

Thx for the input guys

1. You have to decide 1st on the springs. Then you match them with the proper damping. Yellows are a bettr choice IF the spring rate you choose is not too light for them. Where do you plan to buy Konis from and how much?

2. Yes they do squeak. The 'proper' way to install them is using Teflon tape where possible (swaybar bushings for example), try to install greasers where they may help (rear control arms) and DO NOT change all of them. Rear trailing arm ONLY one of them. Whittling bushings have grooves on the inside so they retain grease longer and are more quite. People have similarly 'hacked' ES bushings to create grooves. Search the forums for b13 bushings, there have been numerous threads (also search for rear control arms b13).

3. No personal experience with this new Chinese brand, should be ok though!

Finally, for the front lower control arm, DO GET the Whiteline (or any other brand that has such) OFFSET BUSHING that adds 1deg of caster.

Thank you very very much... clear and compact answer... big to you mate...

I´ll buy koni´s from the portuguese importer([url]www.ecv.pt[/url]), 2 months ago they priced them at +/-360€... for the reds, a bit more for the yellows...

So i´ve been studying the b13 rear suspension binding problem... from what i understand i shouldn´t replaced these(marked red) bushings... right?

You are right, those are the bushings in question. I wouldn't recommend replacing them with urethane bushings unless you know what you're doing and accept the trade-offs.

However, some racers will replace all of them but one with urethane. I believe the 281307 is the one people leave rubber to allow some front-to-back movement. They put up with the increased bind because they gain lateral control and avoid some of the bind by avoiding extreme suspension angles with the use of stiff springs.

Ben is right on the troublesome one. The 4 on the parallel links can be replaced without causing serious issues.