Originally Posted by kahlistrophic
Well, from what Ive been reading the JB Weld not only holds the strut in place, but also supports the shortened insert (nub cut off) inside the shortened housing ( i.e shortened strut). Since there are threads removed from the nub of the insert and screw, there is less effectove holding area/force from the nut. So the JB weld adds a bit more support when placed at the bottom. And by placing it at the top, its to prevent the chance of cracking the housing by not allowing the insert to move.
Thats what I had understood, anyone can correct me if Im wrong..
Well, from what Ive been reading the JB Weld not only holds the strut in place, but also supports the shortened insert (nub cut off) inside the shortened housing ( i.e shortened strut). Since there are threads removed from the nub of the insert and screw, there is less effectove holding area/force from the nut. So the JB weld adds a bit more support when placed at the bottom. And by placing it at the top, its to prevent the chance of cracking the housing by not allowing the insert to move.
Thats what I had understood, anyone can correct me if Im wrong..
Thinking here, not trying to say I'm right.
from putting these in, there is a lot of force required to get them down into the housing. but yeah, i forgot about the fact that there are fewer threads on the shortened front struts. locktite?? hmm.. but these struts aren't going to be rotating in the housing. it's tight.
more thinking: Under what driving situation would the strut insert be forced upward and out of the housing? i guess every time there is rebound. compression of the insert obviously does not matter to the bolt and shortened nub... is there really a enough force in rebound to cause an issue? from what I understand, Steve Foltz was putting JB weld on fronts and rears alike.. just as a precautionary measure. I thought it was overcautious.. I can't remember where I read that it was unecessary.. aside from the instructions which backed up that persons claims.