Thread: SO, THIS looks very wrong.

This is part of why I haven't built any of these yet. They are way more complicated than most people realize. I haven't been able to figure them out yet either. (I'm waiting to have a long talk with someone who's done them.)

^That does belong here. I'm glad you brought it up. Thanks for the input.

They looked like this, but this was for a B14, So the rears were obviously different.

Mark

Holy crap.

You're about 100X as mechanically/engineering minded as me.

No wonder I don't have a clue.

And I fully understand the basic concept. I have read every single thread on the subject. Still don't even want to try (attempt) to build/assemble them myself.

Yah I'm reading all the pertinent articles over again for maybe the 4th time. I think I'm finally getting the idea of how this is done (part of my problem was that I thought it was way more complicated than it is). I'm no expert so I can't help much more here but at first glance it seems that OEM did the work correctly.

However I guess there's still a chance they used the wrong inserts by accident like Isfahan pointed out.

I can't help much more here. Hopefully someone else with much more experience with this setup can help. Maybe it will be a simple solution for PhorB13.

Hey PhorB13, can you get us pictures of the bottoms too?

From Steve's comprehensive CSK option list:



So unlike the fronts, you apparently don't want to cut the Koni inserts down any for the rear. I guess they just go in like the Koni instructions say. If they were shortened in the back that might explain the issue?

It looks like springs are reverse?

If you cut them at 2 or 3 you are loosing spring height. Every thread i have read cuts them at 3 (takes the length off the top) but most are using coil overs and remount the perch.

The fronts look ok to me from the other pictures posted but the rears are way to short, too much preload. There is not enough shaft above the perch for it to operate correctly. Without measuring the shaft length of the koni and comparing that to where the top of the shaft on the stock shock sits it is hard to tell if it is incorrect or not.

From first glance it looks like the work was done the same as everyone else but can you shorten the rears is the question.

The instructions are the same for the front and rear on the B13. Read them here.

They tell you not to shorten the strut at all. All they say is measure from the bumps (aka welds) on the Koni to the top where the shaft comes out. Then subtract 7mm and this is the amount you cut off the top. Ending up with a close to factory strut length.

We shorten them for increase up travel but if you do not move the perch it looks like you should cut the housing below the perch.

FYI...

I am very interested in seeing this issue resolved. And fully appreciate the current posts and information provided.

To be thorough, I just PM'd a couple of resident CSK experts. See who else might help us out and drop some knowledge.

Yah we really need some experts in here.