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Thread: SO, THIS looks very wrong.

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Posts: 21-30 of 173
2010-09-23 21:09:54
#21
If the Spec V inserts were for the front (which they should be), then you probably should have spaced the insert up when using the rear housing. Spacing the insert "less" is what gives you the additional travel.

My setup used B14 fronts (so generally the same as Spec V's) in B13 front housings for the rear, and I had to space them up.

I'm not an expert, but I have built a set (that apparently have been good enough for their 3rd owner).

Here are my measurements (not totally the same setup, but it might be helpful):





You should be able to click on the images for larger copies. My setup was for coilovers, but it should give you some good info.

Josh
2010-09-23 21:19:16
#22
I would separate the setup, and measure the compressed distance from the perch to the top of the shaft and compare it to your AGX (the compressed distance for the B13 rear is the only thing I didn't document since I didn't care).
2010-09-23 21:47:23
#23
Let's see if I can get to all this. the springs are upside down, but still compressed WAY too much regardless.

They are Spec V inserts all around, which might be why the rears are SO compressed already. I think the Spec V housing is too short for B13 housings.

I did NOT mount those on the car since I needed the car to go to school today (which I'll be leaving very soon) so I needed something to drive. I just dropped the RM's on my AGXs for now.

I got an email from Mark at OEM and he said they looked right, and they would straight out when they were mounted. I think he thought I was talking about the crooked pistons themselves. I replied back saying that the compressed coils on the rear were the issue.

Sadly, this is not the first time OEM has made a mistake with a product for me. They sent me the wrong exhaust, which I got remedied, but it cost me over $50 to ship the incorrect parts back of which I was reimbursed only half. And now this. So I HOPE things get worked out.

I've got class. Thanks for all the input though guys. keep it coming.
2010-09-23 21:48:38
#24
I have done several sets of CSKs so I guess I would count as some sort of expert.

All the shortening occurs on top of the spring perch. Basically the whole insert is set lower into the housing. The distance between the spring perch and the top of the strut shaft ( where the upper spring mount goes ) will be lower by the amount of shortening.


The rears look messed up, they should not have been shortened as there is no need on the rear. Using the B15 inserts in the rear is not a good way to go. They are not valved correctly for the rear and should be installed with spacers to make them Custom Lengethened Konis. You may have little or no droop in the rear suspension, not gonna work good.

The fronts look like I would expect them to. But it is not clear how much they have been shortened if at all.

Another concern is what has been done on the top of the strut to adapt the B15 top to the B13 hardware. How about a picture of the top of the strut.
2010-09-23 21:51:34
#25
If these struts were shortened by 52mm they that would have to be the rears, it is not possible to get that much out of the fronts.

If the rears are that much shorter then you have an issue. If you are going to run B15 fronts in the rear you should send them to Koni and have them valved close to what the B13 inserts were.

I see you are in Bridgeport. I am in Hamden and would be happy to look at the struts for you and give you my thoughts.
2010-09-23 22:13:32
#26
So, umm, just wondering, B15 fronts in B13 rears = nono, but B15 fronts in B13 fronts (for rear) is gogo?

With Hyperco's that is.

I ask since I already bought 4 front inserts.

What should I do to make it work?
2010-09-23 23:45:43
#27
Originally Posted by PhorB13
They are Spec V inserts all around
It would seem that is the problem right there.
2010-09-24 01:09:38
#28
Originally Posted by M0J0
So, umm, just wondering, B15 fronts in B13 rears = nono, but B15 fronts in B13 fronts (for rear) is gogo?

With Hyperco's that is.

I ask since I already bought 4 front inserts.

What should I do to make it work?


What you need to physically install the b15 in the rear are some spacers to drop into the struts under the inserts and longer bolts. In the past I have used to use shock washers as spacers for struts. I can make the spacers and source the bolts if you need, just PM me.
2010-09-24 02:27:49
#29
Originally Posted by obewan
I see you are in Bridgeport. I am in Hamden and would be happy to look at the struts for you and give you my thoughts.


That would be a great thing. I right now, I am up in arms as to what I can with these. If the fronts looks ok and the rears look too short, is there a way to put those inserts you were talking about NOW that they have been assembled? I think they might have been JB welded but I will take a look if we meet up, as far as what options I have.

I am debating whether I even want to keep these and just stick with the RM's and AGX combo, and possible just sell these? But surely, perhaps we can meet up.

I had an inkling that the rears were shortened unnecessarily Hopefully this can be remedied.
2010-09-24 02:39:04
#30
JB weld in the shock installs is un-necessary and a bit crude. If the housings have not been cut too short they could be lengthened. I am sure the inserts can be salvaged and put into new housings if necessary. I can usually source used housings without much problem. Unless the inserts were stripped or sand blasted the JB weld won't stick really good to the inserts. It is used as a filler not a glue. And like I said there is NO reason to use it especially with the B15 inserts as they are actually a bit large for the B13 housings, so they will be just fine with nothing.

Another solution is to use the fronts and leave the AGX in the rear. There is no reason for shorter struts in the rear, there is plenty of travel. The fronts need the shorter setup.
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