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Thread: who has done the big brake 4x114.3 conversion?

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Posts: 11-20 of 31
2010-08-17 09:35:35
#11
Originally Posted by Cozzm0_AU
My brake conversions that i have performed have always been with hubs drilled back to the stock 4x100 as i have a few sets of wheels and didn't want to change.

Our AUDM N16's (essentially B15? but with crappy specs) have the same splines in the hub as the N14/15 (B13/14) so no outer CV joint change required, but skyline calipers require the rotor to be resized slightly as the caliper ears are not in the exact correct location.

Front:
I have fit R32 Skyline GTR 290x32 (resized rotor down from 296) 4 pots under 15" (yes!) and 16" wheels.
I have fit W10/U13 twin piston 280x26mm (Maxima A32) under Stock SER 15" wheels.
I have fit N16 Hatch single piston 280x22mm under stock SER 15" wheels.

Rear:
I have fit A32 Maxima 278x9mm under stock SER 15" wheels.


I have definitely considered going 4x114.3, but i do like the 'sleeper' look of a car on stock wheels with nothing fancy on the outside to really give away that its modified. If i ever need to i could just swap the studs back into the 114.3 holes and change the rear hub easily...




For the Skyline brakes: did you had to fab a bracket for the calipers?
I have a RNN14 and been considering the R32 brakes as theyre easy to find here
2010-08-17 11:00:08
#12
Originally Posted by 92_sEnAtRa
For the Skyline brakes: did you had to fab a bracket for the calipers?
I have a RNN14 and been considering the R32 brakes as theyre easy to find here


I used N16 hubs as the caliper bolt pattern is correct for the Skyline caliper (100mm vs 130mm for stock AD22VF). The catch with doing that is the skyline rotor needs to be resized (minimum 6mm, recommend 8mm) as the caliper sits a little too close to the centre to fit the rotor in.

I chose this path because i wanted an upgrade that when inspected visually, showed no dogbone or adapter plate and therefore raised no immediately visible engineering concerns.

For the RNN14, the main concern is their hubs are unique with regards to the tie rod attachment point height. This is higher to compensate for the higher rack location on the firewall. Fitting N16 hubs lowers this point by about 2" (which essentialy is like a big bumpsteer kit adjustment) but sometimes this is too far if the car is not lowered heavily requiring longer tie rod ends to keep a safe number of adjustment threads available.
2011-01-12 23:49:49
#13
i know it's an old thread but. just to be clear you can use g20 hubs in the rear (bolt on) and g20 knuckles in the frt to go 4X114? and use g20t axles?

i was thinking about doing it to do the spec v brembo's in the frt and p11 or b16 wheels. i think that would look great!
2011-01-13 00:37:54
#14
Originally Posted by kaotekxe
i had this in the b13 section but didnt get any love so ill try it here.
so ive been actively researching this and im really thinking about doing this but i have a few questions that i havent found an answer to.. i want to put on z32 calipers on the front BUT which knuckle and hub assembly do i need? ive read that a standard altima u13 hub and knuckle will accept the z32 caliper and ill just use the standard u13 altima rotor but will my axle fit right into this? ive also read that i should use a b15 knuckle and hub, whats the difference? do i absolutely need to use the altima m/c also?

for the rear, will the stock knuckle/hub/caliper/rotor assembly for a p10 bolt right on? will i be able to use the ebrake still?


i used the b15 hub and knuckle. had to machine a bit out of the diameter of the 300zx rotor, but it worked fine. obviosly we drilled the rotor for 4x114. dont know FOR SURE on the altima, but the b15 hub worked perfectly with my factory axles.
2011-01-13 00:40:00
#15
by the way, we used stock s13 wheels.....the se ones i think. worked GREAT. i switched to p10 rear hubs and rotors.
2011-02-03 18:01:02
#16
check my for sale thread. I have u13 rotors, z32 calipers, b15 hubs/spindles, and 16" manaray wheels. rears havent been touched yet
2012-11-23 00:13:18
#17
I was test fitting a P10 rear hub on my NX the other day. It fit, but it sticks out approx .25" more than the stock B13 hub does. That offset my rotor and in turn my caliper. So, I had to shim the caliper bracket outward to get the rotor to sit flush on the hub. Also i wasn't able to fit the washer back on the spindle to the part with the flat sides, but I had plenty of threads to engage the spindle nut. I upgraded to maxima rear calipers a while ago so I just bought some P10 rotors and everything bolts up right, and functions properly. I was just wondering if anyone else had this issue while swapping from B13 to P10 hubs and what was done to correct this if at all?
Last edited by tswii on 2012-11-23 at 00-14-57.
2012-11-24 01:22:21
#18
why would you want to go to 4x114 instead of keeping 4x100? we wish it was easier to convert our p10 to 4x100 for a lot more wheel options!
2012-11-24 15:35:18
#19
Originally Posted by Chris101
why would you want to go to 4x114 instead of keeping 4x100? we wish it was easier to convert our p10 to 4x100 for a lot more wheel options!


Well, I'm not trying to speak for everyone, but I see alot of guys wanting to go the way I am. The bulk of nice aftermarket wheels I'd like to buy are 4x114. Specifically I'm swapping my rear because I'm doing the 6 speed swap(B15 spindles are 4x114), and using 04-06 spec v wheels to clear the brembos.
2012-11-26 03:46:39
#20
go figure because I found so many more 4x100 options I'd love to use on our track rat g20 and had a hell of a time finding 15x8s in an offset that could work and not stick out like stupid crab crawlers with all the 15 and 0 offset options means for RWD older 4x114 cars
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