Thread: any ideas

thanks for everything shawn B and what you said was true. ok guys here is what im lookin to do to my car!!!! i want to use it for auto cross and some daily drivin, since i did not research and dont want to waste money i would like to use my gc coil overs i got. so my next buy will be struts, but like i have read in other post, i may be ridin on bump stops when i lower it if i get the wrong ones. so im lookin for a place to get some good struts in the price range of 400 to 1000? now that i have read more on here the last couple of days i wont try to jump the gun on a good DEAL lol next time. so give me some ideas

What dont you understand about what is posted in the suspension thread. To me its pretty clearly spelled out. You need to read, and to me it seems like you still have read nothing.

READ THIS

Does your mom still wipe your butt? Do something for yourself.

This is all a direct copy from the suspension thread posted by ShawnB.
Here is a link if you are still confused.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/1801-b13-b14-b15-suspension-information.html


Struts

KYB AGX struts - (Application: B13, B14, B15) These are a stock OEM length strut that is a popular purchase on the forum. They are inexpensive, much better than stock, and work well in certain applications. They are a direct bolt-on fitment.

Mated up with the Hyperco springs, some Koni bumpstops, and you have a very good and inexpensive DD, auto-cross suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sport Compact Car April 2005
Match....Hyperco....springs with some off-the-shelf adjustable KYB AGX struts, and you almost have a great track-worthy street suspension. Almost. Stiff springs and minimal lowering help keep you off your bumpstops, but they're still not enough. Midcorner bumps will still have you crashing the bumpstops.

Bump stops are not the end of the suspension's travel, though, nor are they something to be avoided at all costs. A properly designed bump stop will gently increase the overall spring rate in the last inch or so of travel and evan act as its own damper, gently rebounding more like a Nerf ball than a Super Ball.

Most modern cars use relatively soft microcellular polyurethane foam bump stops that are essentially the hard-core automotive equivalent of Nerf. You can try your luck pilfering these modern stoppers from the junkyard, or you can try the proven solution of Koni Sport bump stops.

With this simple spring/strut/bump stop combination - the front struts set on three (of four) and the rears on three or four (of eight) - the suspension rides well, is remarkably well controlled and handles bumpy roads with aplomb. (Author Dave Coleman)
AGX's may work well with the Road Magnets. Further information on pairing them with the RM's will be posted as it becomes available.

As AGX's are OEM length, they will NOT work well with any of the "other" commercially available springs (H&R, Eibach, etc....). You will be riding on your bumpstops. You will probably damage the AGX's. From this thread: Which Springs/Mounts should I get??? - SR20 Forum
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
The reason every lowering spring but the Hyperco is bad with the AGX's is because only the Hyperco has the needed spring rate combined with a small drop that will work with OEM length struts. Any other lowering spring is too soft and has too much drop for the OEM length AGX's.
AGX's will work with your stock OEM springs just fine. Mated with some Progress sway bars, and you would have a much improved daily driver over the stock suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Same thread as above
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmboss
I just want the AGX's i dont care about lowering.... for now I just want to get rid of my current setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
Stock springs, Progress front and rear sway bars would be a nice setup
How they work:
Quote:
Originally Posted by KYB Website
The compression and rebound rates on the AGX can be adjusted with an external knob on the shock body or a screwdriver slot at the top of the piston rod, depending on model. The knob adjusts both compression and rebound at the same time, with 1 being the softest setting, and 8 being the hardest setting. You select damping rate.
Ballpark price: $425'ish a set

(Closed) Group Buy thread: B13/B14 Kyb Agx Round 2 - SR20 Forum

KYB website opened to SE-R page:
KYB Shocks and KYB Struts for High Performance Cars and Trucks

Custom Shortened Koni struts (CSK's forthwith) - (Applications: B13, B14, B15). Just what the name implies, you use a stock OEM strut body, cut down it's length and insert a (Red? Yellow? Oh, my..... Fun Fact about Koni - SR20 Forum) Koni insert into the shortened housing. This provides you with an extra inch of travel in your suspension. Remember, OEM travel is only 3", an extra inch of suspension travel when using lowering springs of any sort helps maintain suspension travel.

Koni website: Koni: Welcome

Hypothetically:

OEM length strut:
(3" OEM) minus the "drop" on the springs (1.5") = 1.5" of suspension travel left. Not good at all.

CSK's
(3" OEM) minus the "drop" on the springs (1.5") = 1.5" of suspension travel. Now add back in the inch that you cut out of the Koni strut length (+ 1") and you have 2.5" of suspension travel. Much closer to orginal OEM of 3".

* 06/2009 * CURRENT discussion/clarification.
"Custom Shortened Koni INFO Discussion" thread:
Custom Shortened Koni INFO Discussion - SR20 Forum

Ballpark price DIY: XXX
Ballpark price having them built for you:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
I can make them a variety of different ways. The breakdown is as follows. Remember this is custom work so I can do it a variety of ways. This also assumes you send me your usable stock housings.

Koni's (adjustable, but you need to take them off to do it) = $535
Install them shorter in the front= $75 (this is it for the b14)
Install all 4 into housing for the b13 housings = $125
Shorter all the way around = 150 (not needed on the b13, not possible on the b14)
Add, externally adjustable Fronts on either car = $85 extra for the pair. This allows the use of strong front springs as well. 350lb to 375lb should be ok.
Custom Mounts for GC perch (allow the use of a 10 inch front spring) = $75 per axle. Only needed up front.

So if you have a b13 and you want shorter fronts and standard rears (535+125) and you also want the externally adjustable fronts ($85) plus the custom mounts for the longer spring up front only ($75). This puts you at $820 for my work (plus shipping) and then you provide the GC setup (400 at the most). This setup is far nicer then the TEIN in ride. Plus, you can add the GC camber caster plates which give you another 3/4 inch of travel up front. A lot of people already own this GC stuff so it saves them money. Hope that helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
(I recommend....) Koni as your first choice in struts because in the end they are the most versitile strut you can buy. You can run the oem length and learn how to install them like that. If you ever decide you want to lower the car you can shorten them up and still have a great setup. OEM install on a B13 is not that hard and the benifit is great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve from later in this thread

CSK info:

CSK need to be choosen based on the type of spring you want to use. If you are using oem style spring (any spring that does not use a coilover sleeve) then you have to use the Off The Shelf (OTS) B13 Koni unit for the rear of the B13. With drop springs or coilovers you can use the OTS B13 or B15 unit up front. B13 front unit is a touch shorter then the B15 front but does not have external adjustment while on the car. B15 front unit has external adjustment and those can be adjusted with out removing the strut. If you want to use the OTS Koni Maxima front unit you need to use it with coilovers. To use that you need to use any number of oem nissan housings. Maxima, Altima all have some housings that will work. They need to be a 2 inch O.D. to work.
Spring Rates
B13 Fronts =350
B14 Fronts = 400+ (not as short as the B13, I use it as a rear with the Maxima insert on the B13 with coilovers only).
B15 Fronts 400-450 (450 is the limit, 400 is better).
Maxima Fronts= 450+

Dampening is very personal. Some people may like the B13 fronts with higher then 350 some people would not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve from later in this thread

Adjustability

Only the B15 front is externally adjustable. All Konis commonly used wtih the B cars are adjustable, you just must remove the spring to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve later in this thread

"B14-15 (chassis) have to use OTS (off the shelf) non-shortened units in the rear of the car. They are shocks not struts and are sold complete. They are not inserts that can be relativly easily shortened. Koni can shorten them for you."
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve later in this thread
Back in the day, the B13 front was the only option commonly tired. Now we have Spec V and Maxima inserts....

But, knowing what I know now, I recommend the SpecV insert. The cost is less then $10 more.
BTW, the Maxima insert ($135 from tirerack) as tested by Koni has nearly the same starting rebound dampening as the 8611 but with out the overly stiff compression portion. It's my favorite setup for the front. The B14 Koni front has about 10% less starting dampening as the 8611 and makes a great rear unit for a B13 GC car. In the end my criteria for a shock are:

1 Shorter then stock
2 Adjustable
3 Easily Revalvable
4 Of a know high Quality
5 Adaptable to a variety of setups
6 Race Proven
7 Will survive a daily driver

Very few shocks make that list. VERY, VERY few.

.....There is a heck of a lot more in picking a damper then just looking at a dyno curve. I will take "1 inch plus shorter then stock Koni" over the AGX setup any day of the week on a lowered car. If I was to build up any B13/14/15 my first and only choice would be either a set of Spec V or Maxima/B14 setup depending on the springs I was using..... Just to be clear, it's not "my Maxima" setup in the sense that you have to pay me to get it done. I have posted how to do all this stuff on your own. It's off the shelf simple
Quote:
Originally Posted by Koni website
The red KONI Special is designed for drivers who want to improve their car’s handling. Improved comfort and road holding combined with a higher level of safety, available for almost every car. Each shock absorber is customised for the car model. Hence, a KONI Special is always the best choice for replacement as well as improvement.

Quote:
(Yellow Sport) KONI serves sporting drivers with a carefully designed range of sport shock absorbers. This line focuses on exceptional road holding combined with an acceptable level of comfort. Its characteristics include responsive steering, reduced body-roll and limited body movements. Externally adjustable shock absorbers make fine tuning even more easy.


* 06/2009 * CURRENT discussion/clarification.
"Custom Shortened Koni INFO Discussion" thread:
Custom Shortened Koni INFO Discussion - SR20 Forum

Will my "Brand X" strut body work? Yes, if it is OEM replacement it will work as a donor strut.

Can I use the Koni's unshortened? Yes. Here's a thread: What is the best street set-up for a 1991 SER suspension - SR20 Forum

Why go with the Koni's? See thread above. Also, check out this one: Shortened struts - SR20 Forum

Where can I get these Koni inserts?
Tire Rack carrries a full line of Koni products: Tires

Who can make me a set of CSK's already shortened that I can just bolt-on and go?

1) You can contact forum member 98sr20ve, Steve. However, PLEASE do NOT contact Steve unless you are damned serious and have money in your hand. He is a very busy man, so please do not bug him for no reason. He will determine if/when he can help you out based on his schedule not yours. There is no "haggling" on his prices, pay what he charges and smile, it is a veritable bargain. He is a very nice guy doing you a great favor, he does not need your "business." Please treat him and his very valuable and limited time with a great amount of respect. Comprende?

2) You can contact TheKid29. It is readily apparent that he does terrific work and offers his services here:
B13 Struts Koni 8610 or 8611 - SR20 Forum

3) Overkill Engineering Motorsports offers them for sale. The thread is right here:
Feeler: Prebuilt CSK's
And this is a direct link to Overkill Engineerings web-page:
Custom Shortened Koni

From our Tech Library, how to make them:
How to shorten your own Koni struts. - SR20 Forum
Isfahan provided excellent photos of his Koni build-up:
Koni pile of parts:

Assembled Koni red:

Assembled Koni yellow:

Koni Red with bumpstop and dust boot:


Koni's web-site: Koni: Welcome

Other Struts

Replacement struts for your OEM struts. (Application: B13, B14, B15)

Tokico HP Series (commonly Tokico Blues) - http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/products/hp/
Work fine as a replacement strut for your OEM strut. They are not an upgrade of any sort. The quality is fine, Tokico builds struts for many Japanese car manufacturers.
Ballpark price - $90'ish or so per strut.

KYB GR2's - KYB Shocks and KYB Struts for High Performance Cars and Trucks Another replacement strut for your OEM strut. Nothing fancy, does the job, not an upgrade.
Ballpark price - $85'ish rear, $70'ish front

You could start by reading us the numbers written on the actual springs. Then can we see if your going to have springs that don't compress or springs that are soggy as water.

front springs is written 700 250 350 rear springs 150 64 53

Now find out what the spring rate is by searching.

You need to educate yourself before we can discuss suspensions.

Which is why the Suspension Thread was created. To educate you and everyone else that knows nothing about our suspensions (like I was, totally ignorant). Once you have read the thread, then we (and the rest of the forum) can intelligently discuss your suspension plans for a "daily driver and autocross vehicle". Printed out, the body of the thread is 81-pages long. You could read that in an evening or three, and well worth it to get yourself up to speed.

Your budget for struts is A-OK, no problems, you can buy high quality stuff (hint: CSK's) to mate with your GC coilovers.


You can see from Squirlz post that there is a TON of information in The Suspension Thread. All organized, categorized, and containing a Table of Contents.

Whether you know nothing about our suspensions, or are rather savvy, it is easy to read, follow, and understand.


Translated:

"We'll be more than happy to help you, but first you must help yourself."

Read the thread.

well they are 350 front and 300 rear any good???? well i think im going with the koni cks with the d2 camber plate with koni bump stops!!!!!