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Thread: Anybody heard of these?

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Posts: 21-24 of 24
2009-06-26 13:36:36
#21
Originally Posted by Shawn
this is a product most suited for racing applications? Like with a dedicated track car kind of serious racing?
The specific product in this thread is not necessarily aimed at racers. If it were, it would have spherical joints instead of a rubber/urethane bushing. These are more aimed at the street crowd who want camber adjustment for whatever reason (better able to dial in a good handling alignment, correct for a drop in suspension, etc.). Someone who still wants some isolation from the road, but wants to get a great alignment with a lowered suspension.

Originally Posted by Shawn
"Most of us don't need the adjustment"....please clarify. Whom are you referring to exactly?
I say this because most of us are riding on a stock suspension, or lowered with Hyperco/Roadmagnet springs. Stock suspension people will have stock camber providing decent tire wear characteristics and okay handling. Lowered cars will have about 2 degrees more of negative camber (one of the benefits of lowering) which is usually good for cornering grip, and has very minimal affect on tire wear characteristics.
These rods are for a few people:
  • Those who lowered their car and want to bring camber back closer to stock (sort of an odd thing to do but stranger things have happened).
  • Those who lowered their car but still want more negative camber (super aggressive camber).
  • Those with stock ride height who want more negative camber (if you're at stock height, what are you doing worrying about camber to begin with?).
  • Those who want more toe adjustment than the stock eccentrics provide (only God knows why).
  • Those who can't get a proper alignment due to some defect or damage to the chassis/frame.

Originally Posted by Shawn
Who would you recommend consider this peice and who should not bother?
Once you've got your suspension sorted out, if you can get the alignment you want out of the rear of the chassis, then you don't need these (likely most of us). If you can't get the alignment you'd like in the rear, these would be your ticket, unless of course you want a more direct connection to the road, and want to get rid of the inherent binding that exists in the rear suspension. If that's what you're after, then the spherical bearings are what you want.

I mean, there are maybe other reasons to buy these. They are cheaper than stock pieces, so if you need the bushings in the rear, you have to buy the entire piece, and this is cheaper, so that's cool.
2009-06-26 13:40:13
#22
Originally Posted by bluebomber
Thats cool! I dont want to steal your thunder, go right ahead.
No... You go ahead. You're way faster than I am, and if they are what I'm looking for, maybe I'll buy them too. If you'd like, I can give you the name of the supplier I was going to use, and give you some pictures of their stuff. Very beefy components, or aluminum stuff if you'd like... They have everything you'd ever want to make these things, with possibly the exception of the centering cones. If those have to be made by you, then you could have a product that's really special.
2009-06-26 14:10:19
#23
The only problem is, if you do use these for race applications, replacement of stock control arms with adjustable control arms usually throws you in a much higher and harder race category. Generally, to keep costs down and stay competitive stick to Street Touring in SCCA. That allows coilovers, ES control arm bushings, and most all engine boltons. It does not allow cams, turbos, internal engine work, and modification of stock suspension mount points. Unless you are an avid and very smart racer like Mike K. who can fine tune his suspension and engine to be competitive in Street Modified and higher, it really isn't worth it.
2009-06-26 17:35:33
#24
bought these for a couple basic reasons. first off i had rear arms that had been boxed with poly bushings and it was a big improvement over non boxed w/poly. to get bushings and box the control arms since i cant weld my self cost almost as much as getting these pre made w/poly. figure around $75 for the bushings and $70-$100 for boxing in the rear arms and your almost at the $240 i paid for them shipped. also if you need to replace factory pieces your looking at $80 a link and you need 4 so it cost less.
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