Thread: Strut mount bolts too short....solution?

Holy Closeup Batman!!!!! Nice pics Shawn.

See: http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/13333-arp-extended-studs.html#post174039


Would be the easiest job the shop did that day. Stupid easy. They may not even charge you.
If you want, any member here with a welder could do it for you for the price of shipping (me included).

Also, if you were really enterprising you might consider grinding down the part of the "head" of the stud that prevents it from pressing completely into the hole. This way you will gain 5mm or so. Then weld them in place. A possible solution anyway.



In the mean time (since you're never going to be happy with the current situation) may I suggest some blue loc-tite?

What's up Joe? Your name just came up in Off Topic. Someone asked if I had ever met anyone from the forum. Good to see you online.

Wifey and I own a Sony Cybershot Pro DSC-D770. Which was about twelve-hundred ($1,200.00) bucks when new. About a century ago. We got it as a "pre-owned" gift from a friend of ours that has too much money, and always has thee cutting edge of electronic devices. The damn thing is HUGE, bulky, and was the baddest mofo on the planet in its day. Probably has a whopping 2 mega-pixels resolution, or something along those lines. Holds about thirty photos, tops, depending on which resolution you choose.

Recently we bought a Cannon PowerShot SX110is. It is 9 mega-pixels. 10X optical zoom. Another 4 X digital zoom. 3" LCD screen. And, while bigger than the itty-bitty micro-sized cameras, it is still quite small and would drop into just about any pocket. It was about $280 out the door including a little 1 or 2 gig memory card, which is capable of holding about 300 photos.

Talk about a technology leap in the last decade. It is insane.

The proof is in clearly seeing those vertical and horizontal stud threads. I love that first shot.

I read that thread, it is slated for the Suspension Thread.

Due to your R&D sir, I shall NEVER buy Nismo studs. However, you can damn well bet that if I....ahem..."debatably" need longer studs, I will be buying a set of ARP wheel studs.

To me, anything associated with stopping and going needs to be as reliable as humanly possible. Overengineered to a degree. Those short strut mount studs have me getting all anal retentive and OCD on fixing them.



Thank you for the info. Welding in grade-8 bolts in the appropriate size may indeed be the correct answer.

Careful Ben, you may have a set of strut mounts and eight (8) bolts being shipped to you via overnight delivery. Two (2) extra bolts in case you need a spare for fitment or experimentation. Thank you for that offer.

First, I'll see if a local shop can hook me up for a reasonable charge. At least you have confirmed that this is a piece-of-cake minor welding job.


Great minds think alike. Mike will be re-assembling the suspension, he already mentioned Loc-tite. At the same time he grumbled about the studs being too short for comfort.

The vehicle will be driven/pushed around a body-shop for the next month or so. The shop said three (3) weeks. At this time, I'm not expecting it to be done for about five (5) weeks.

In the meantime, I will continue to bird-dog an inexpensive, elegant, and 100% mechanically correct solution. Actually, forget the elegant part, I'll settle for two out of three.

I spent some time at tacoma screw trying to find you a longer press in stud of the same knurl diameter. I figured if its metric or standard should nut really matter as long as the stud is a bit longer. I should be getting a call tomorrow to see if they found anything close. Did you happen to measure the knurl diameter?

Find out what the closest sized stud you CAN get, press out the current ones, drill to fit those, and you're done.

Edit-- Machine shop to drill the mounts, I believe the holes on the chassis are over sized already, so unless you go with some monster studs, I'd imagine you'd be fine there.

If you are going to go the new bolt route, look for button head cap screws. They will have a shallow dome head and a hex socket opening. No need to worry about head clearance issues. You should be able to find them in metric dimensions. Get the black oxide ones. They are equivalent to grade 8.

tein pillow ball mounts with cusco bar

^^^^ Thread for days on those!

I don't even know what a knurl diameter is. However, I am about to run errands, one of which is dropping off the mount at Mike's. I am sure he can give the knurl diameter. Which I will post shortly.

Then he can reassemble the strut mount, and finally send my ride to Alberts Body Shop.

That gives me about three (3) weeks to solve the strut bolt issue. Alberts is gonna be, at the very least, that time-frame.


Awesome information. Gracias.


More good information. Thanks.



That is certainly a viable option on the list.

However, I *think* I am going to limit my efforts to making the Nissan OEM mount work exactly correctly. For relatively cheaply.

I personally don't require any sort of adjustable strut mounts. I'd rather keep my suspension duh-simple, daily driver oriented, and highly effective. Once I swap the AGX's for CSK's, I am about done with my suspension.

Time to learn. No time like the present.




http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/10256-b13-wheel-stud-knurl-diameter-size-dimension.html


It's the striated part right above the "head" of a stud. It has a diameter, and makes a difference (is good information to know) when trying to make things fit properly/snugly.
http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1899/834326.jpg