Thread: arp extended studs

I don't know anything about the H&R wheel studs, but I wouldn't spend any money on ARPs. I'd install them and assume they are good. If you don't break any in the first couple of months then you can figure you're safe. If you do break one, it very easy to replace them, so it's not like you've lost a lot of work time. Just get the ARPs as replacements later if you find them to be a problem.
As far as I know, none are as bad as the Nismo ones. They are bad by miles.

Just asking a question.

Why would you be sheering Nismo Wheel studs over stock ones.

You do realize that both the factory intalled stud and the Nismo stud are of the same quality.

The only reasson for a stud to sheer is because of them being over tigntened or undertigthend. Over tightened strethes the the stud and undertighened causin the wheel to put load on each stud as the wheel turns.

I have been using Nismo Studs on my cars for the past 18 years and never had this problem.

I have Nismo Studs on my SER for the past 10 years and not one of them has had a problem.

I quit.

I can only assume this is not the case. I'm one of many who have experienced the same problems with them. Take it up with the guys at FreshAlloy.com if you want. I can only assume their production is outsourced or similar which could produce lower quality. That, or just the fact that they are longer, allowing for a wheel to be mounted further from the hub, is enough to break them.

That's not the only reason.

I can only say you've been lucky. What length studs? 50mm or 60mm? What type of spacers have you run, if any? What offset wheels?

Same questions as above.


I've had endless problems with them, as have others. I torque mine to 80-85 ft-lbs. every time (OEM spec). I have hub centric wheel spacers. There's nothing I could do to stop them from breaking. I guess we've just had different luck with them.

Here's a bunch of others saying the same thing about Nismo's poor wheel stud quality.
FreshAlloy.com Forums

I didn't even consider poor quality studs to be my problem until I read that thread.

Additional info on the Nismo studs. I ran Nismo up front and OEM in back for a couple years. I sheered many of the Nismo ones, and never broke an OEM stud in the rear.
I then switched to Nismo in the rear and started sheering them too. This is with and without a spacer.

I got my first set of Nismo studs about 5 years ago. Maybe they switched production techniques since you got yours 10 years ago?

Either way, I have a box of about 20 of them you can buy if you'd like. Some new, some used. Real cheap. =]

BennFenner you did not answer a damn question or say what you have done all you have done is post questions.

You talk about the Nismo stud not being the same as factory yet you just make a statement to say its not the case.

If the reasons listed for studs to break are diffrent than being over tigntened or undertigthend, then list the reasons. Just dont say thats not the only reasons, list the damn reasons then.

I find it funny that you say I have been lucky yet then ask me another question without about the length of the studs without answering any damn question.

At the Z Shop yes oppened since 1972 and closed in 2004 all that was ever used was Nismo studs. On my NX2000 I used 60mm studs and on my SER I use 50 mm studs. The 60 mm studs have ben on the NX2000 since 1994 and I know who owns my NX2000 now and he has not changed them, the NX2000 has a 1/2 spacer on the back. My SER with the 50mm studs has a 3/8 spacer on the back.

I want to see what you call a hubcentric spacer. All the spacers on my cars are hubcentric made specifically for my cars. My spacers are so tight that I have to use greese to fit them into my rims, then again I have to use greese to put them onto my hubs. So when the rim comes off it does not move. My spacers are not some universal thing they are made specifically for my car.

If you are sheering studs you must be doing something wrong, think abut it for a second. When you have thought about it let me know.

In both pics you can see the hubcentric spacer. If you look closely at the second pic you can see the lip of the hub centric part of the spacer by the greese cover in the center of the rim. These spacers are made from 1 pc of billet aluminum on a lathe specific to my car and rims of my car.

When people start to get incompedent on their projects they blame their problems on somebody else instread of themselves. Thats how it is done " we call it the blame game "

I know when you messed up your suspension in the rear it was Nissans fault for doing whatever you said. I have done 4 of those setups with the bushings and never had a problem. I have had friends do that and never seen that probelm you had with your suspension but yet we all have the same links and hub, makes you wonder.

Let me tell you and others a few things. Step away from the power tools. I never use power tools to tighten anything. I use one impact wrench power tool to loosen anything I cant break loose with my hands.

prettty much the same as that..

although i have got a tad lazy of late and will buzz stuff on with a battery gun and finish tightening by hand.

Not to get nit-picky or anything, but if you'd typed a single question mark in your post, maybe I'd have answered questions you asked. The way I see it, you didn't ask a single one.
I figured you were setting me up with your "question" just to tear me down. I figured it was rhetorical.
I'll answer it now.

At first I thought it was the universal wheel spacers that were causing the problems. Not only was I using universal spacers up front, I also had washers adding to the spacers for more brake clearance. It was a really bad set-up involving a universal spacer, some washers, and it made it so the wheel hub wasn't resting on the hub extension. Overall, it was awful.
I blamed the sheered Nismo studs on that.
I broke so many I got off my ass and designed my own spacers. Just like you they were made on a lathe from billet aluminum and are hubcentric, and hub continuing. They, just like yours, are extremely tight. They are tight on the hub, and the wheels are tight on the hub extension.

Here's a quote from my project thread to show you the spacers.



After I had these made I installed two up front to replace the crappy spacer situation I had going. Keep in mind I still had the OEM studs and no spacers in the rear. I figured I had my wheel stud issue behind me.
This was not the case. I continued to sheer them at the same frequency as before in the front. The rears had been without issue.

I decided to install the other two spacers in the rear, so I put Nismo studs in
the rear along with the spacers.

Now I was sheering studs in the front, and the rear.

I then took the spacers off the rear and ran with just Nismo studs to see if the spacer was the problem. It wasn't. I kept breaking them.

I had been torquing them with a torque wrench to 82.5 ft-lbs. ever since I got the car. No air/electric tools touched the lug nuts. I had proper spacers installed. "What else could be going wrong?" I asked myself. It was then I decided to start searching for wheel stud alternatives. I then found others with similar experiences to me. Some had all four or five studs sheer at once during track sessions causing their wheel/tire to go flying down the track leaving them with a good deal of damage to their car.

I concluded the quality of the studs was the problem. I looked for alternatives, and decided on ARP.
I'm a happy guy now with no more sheered studs.


I have no idea who makes the Nismo stud, or what quality it is. It makes sense to assume they are made in the same factory right alongside the OEM Nissan studs. But if that's the case, I have no idea why they seem to be of such low quality comparatively. My only guess is that they are not made to the same standards, or the OEM ones are only decent because they are kept short. I don't know. I only have theories.


1) They could be made of cheese, or jellow, or anything else not up to the task. This would cause them to break no matter how you torqued them.
2) They could be the same quality as OEM and break because of the extra leverage they have to deal with because of their longer length, and the wheels bolted to them being further outboard, and wider than stock. All this leverage could cause them to break even if they were the same strength as OEM, if OEM strength is "just good enough".


Sorry, usually I can make out what you're trying to say, but not this time. Clarify?

See above.

Sounds exactly like my spacers.

Yah. I bought Nismo studs. That's what I did wrong.
I have. I've thought about it for years. I'm open to new ideas though. You have any?

Again, exactly like mine. Apparently we have the same idea of what a good spacer is.


I may be a lot of things, but incompetent is not one of them. Nor do I cut corners, etc.
I know it's easy to shrug someone off as incompetent, but really, you've got the wrong person. Give me some credit. Jesus.

I never blamed Nissan. I blamed the ES bushings for a while, but concluded it was my fault in the end. Many others have the same ES bushings without any of the problems I had. No one with ES bushings had the problems I had. I can face facts. I accepted it must have been my fault and said so in that thread.

You and I are lot more alike than I think you'd like to admit. Terrific advice, and words to live by. I know I do.