Originally Posted by BenFenner
How bad is the understeer during transitions? You say it shows understeer during long sweepers for the most part?
How bad is the understeer during transitions? You say it shows understeer during long sweepers for the most part?
During transitions, it's not all that bad. Although, I have no power steering, sometimes it's hard to get the car in the direction I want it to go. I'll put it this way. If I go to make a hard left or hard right, I feel like I have to turn the wheel more than I should have to turn it.
During long sweeps, it's almost scary. Imagine a sharp exit ramp. Most of us would do a typical exit ramp at about 80, before I could do that, too. If I did 80, now, you'd be seeing my car in the local paper.
Before I go on, just some more info. The handling changed drastically since the swap, but a lot of changes happened during the swap as well. I removed the strut bar, I removed the power steering, I removed a lot of weight from the front wheels. My wheels are bigger in diameter and I am running 10mm spacers in front (both wheel size and spacers were to clear the front brakes). I changed out all the bushings and wheel bearings. I raised the ride height to nearly stock because of the wheel size.
Originally Posted by wildmane
Since shocks and struts wear slowly overtime and not immediately/quickly then it's kinda hard to say if your ****ty k-sports are performing like new. I'd attribute at least a good bit of your issue with your coilovers. Also, how fresh and worn are your tires? You're not still using 15" wheels, correct? Tires with thin side walls won't be able to absorb as much of the road, I bet with your current tires, tire size, and ****ty (don't take it as an insult, K-sports really aren't that great at all) suspension, every little undulation in the road is going to be magnified, and your tires are fighting to keep what little grip they already had.
Since shocks and struts wear slowly overtime and not immediately/quickly then it's kinda hard to say if your ****ty k-sports are performing like new. I'd attribute at least a good bit of your issue with your coilovers. Also, how fresh and worn are your tires? You're not still using 15" wheels, correct? Tires with thin side walls won't be able to absorb as much of the road, I bet with your current tires, tire size, and ****ty (don't take it as an insult, K-sports really aren't that great at all) suspension, every little undulation in the road is going to be magnified, and your tires are fighting to keep what little grip they already had.
I know I'm probably going to get a lot of input on the K-sports. I won't argue, it could be partly to blame, but not to this extent. Wear seems very unlikely as well, I mean, this is night and day and it only started after the swap. There is no visible damage to the shocks and they're still practically new.
Tires. I bought the Azenis new. They're 225/50/17 and I'm running that size only because of my brakes, I seriously cannot go any smaller. I did choose tires with a lot of sidewall, I could've probably done 225/45 or 225/40, but I figured low-pros would handle and ride like sh{t.
Another thing you could take into consideration is the fact that the engine, while not necessarily heavier than any other comparative setup, may be placing more weight towards the front of the car. SR20DET and SR20VE engines were designed for mostly similar chassis to the B14, and if not for all intents and purposes, the same chassis.
Placement of weight is a huge factor in the way a car will handle.
I agree, and I thought of this many times, but you have to consider, the weight is no more forward the front axle than the SR, not to mention look where the turbo, IC, and pipes go, they're way out in front of the front axle.
Originally Posted by billc
Determining your corner weights might be a starting point for an objective discussion.
Determining your corner weights might be a starting point for an objective discussion.
Is there any place I can go to get corner weights? I'm sure I can find a place that can do the entire car, or front to back. This is a good point and I'm not trying to nullify this argument, but I seriously can't imagine my F/R balance being more than a bone stock Sentra, if anything, I'd imagine it being less. Anyhow, I will try to get some figures.
Originally Posted by Shawn
Do you have an aftermarket Rear Sway Bar?
Is the Bolt-In-Bars RSTB the three-point version or two-point?
Do you have an IKEA brace?
I have an extremely limited veiwpoint on diagnosing an actual suspension problem. However, assuming everything else is in fact operating correctly, those items would all contribute to less understeer. And you do not appear to have them.
I have a Progressive Suspension Rear sway bar and it's set at the highest stiffness.Do you have an aftermarket Rear Sway Bar?
Is the Bolt-In-Bars RSTB the three-point version or two-point?
Do you have an IKEA brace?
I have an extremely limited veiwpoint on diagnosing an actual suspension problem. However, assuming everything else is in fact operating correctly, those items would all contribute to less understeer. And you do not appear to have them.
I wasn't aware of a 3-point Bolt-in-Bars rear brace for the B14, I have a 2 point.
I never did the IKEA brace, but I could possible fab something up, if I had to.
Originally Posted by Old
The most important thing that you can do to improve B14 handling is to get the rear axle bent to zero toe in.
I have a bottle jack . Naw, I want to do it bad, but I would need someone like Steve.The most important thing that you can do to improve B14 handling is to get the rear axle bent to zero toe in.
Originally Posted by Old
If you take the same amount of weight and move it further from the center of the car (towards the front, for example) you increase the polar moment of inertia and make it more difficult to rotate the mass of the car. If you move the weight toward the center, just the opposite occurs. That is the principle behind mid-engine cars.
Trust me, I know this better than most. I didn't get a degree in Mechanical Engineering for nothin' If you take the same amount of weight and move it further from the center of the car (towards the front, for example) you increase the polar moment of inertia and make it more difficult to rotate the mass of the car. If you move the weight toward the center, just the opposite occurs. That is the principle behind mid-engine cars.
Originally Posted by Old
Also, even though the V6 may weigh the same, chances are that the weight is more concentrated toward the top than in the SR engine. This will raise the center of gravity at the front of the car. This increases the weight transfer in the corners and puts more load on the outside tire. You might need to make your own rear sway bar, stiffer than the ones you can buy.
Very possible. I've been looking at this in terms of weight behind/in front of the front axle, but it is very possible the VQ is very top heavy, considering I have 2 heads and 2 sets of cams.Also, even though the V6 may weigh the same, chances are that the weight is more concentrated toward the top than in the SR engine. This will raise the center of gravity at the front of the car. This increases the weight transfer in the corners and puts more load on the outside tire. You might need to make your own rear sway bar, stiffer than the ones you can buy.
How would I go about making my own sway bar? Just weld a thick steel bar to the swing arms? I'm not an expert on suspension design, But my worst fear would be me making things worse, my second fear is that steel rod buckling.