Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Foam Filling the chassis......

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 31-40 of 138
2008-12-05 03:33:16
#31
Ah, I see. I saw Shawn didn't want to use great stuff, but I figured you could still trim the other foam.
2008-12-05 05:19:04
#32
Originally Posted by swiss
Ah, I see. I saw Shawn didn't want to use great stuff, but I figured you could still trim the other foam.


i have used great stuff quite a bit to stop trunk rattles and things of that nature. the foam shawn is going to use is quite a bit more hardcore and i dont feel as tho a simple pass of a hobby knife will trim it off. also, great stuff doesnt REALLY stick to paint, you can buff it off, shawns foam is much more comparable to a glue.
2008-12-05 11:48:28
#33
Originally Posted by swiss
Brennan didn't seem to have any trouble. He just let it expand and trimmed it off:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/79520-post107.html

Originally Posted by BoxedFox
That's actually a slightly different kind of foaming. More specifically, it's a different kind of foam. Great Stuff is a highly aerated, quick cure foam that's great for stopping heat and damping noise. It's not so good for structural purposes though.

Not to say that Brennan did anything wrong. I think Brennan made the right choice of materials there. I'm just not sure if it'll work for what Shawn B is looking to do.

Agreed, I have come to hate constant squeeks and rattles, and it looks like the Great Stuff does the trick.
Originally Posted by swiss
Ah, I see. I saw Shawn didn't want to use great stuff, but I figured you could still trim the other foam.

It wasn't "didn't want to use" Great Stuff, hell using that would be far easier. Cheaper too. And apparently would work for sound deadening rattles quite well.

Brennans write-up and pics is terrific for that application. Good work.

Actually my friend, I am glad you brought up the subject of "other foams."
Originally Posted by classicaddict
i have used great stuff quite a bit to stop trunk rattles and things of that nature. the foam shawn is going to use is quite a bit more hardcore and i dont feel as tho a simple pass of a hobby knife will trim it off. also, great stuff doesnt REALLY stick to paint, you can buff it off, shawns foam is much more comparable to a glue.

Bingo.

And I think it is more of a saw, chisel perhaps, grinding wheel kind of removal. Nor does it come off with any solvent.

"Glue" might be a good analogy, two-part epoxy type glue. With lots'a bubbles in it.

Mike K calls it "catalyzed rigid structural polyurethane foam."
Originally Posted by SCC




As the foam cures, it expands with the excess coming out of the holes where it was injected. Note how it is important to mask carefully. If you accidentally use too much foam, you could have much more coming out of the holes than we did. If it gets in the carpet, it will never come out.

Here's an edited version of the article from SCC magazine (link to full article in first post):
Originally Posted by SCC
Foam-Filling the Chassis
In any high-performance car, it is impossible to make the chassis too stiff. The stiffer the chassis, the higher its natural frequency, making the energy imparted to it by bumps less likely to excite the body's structure. A stiffer chassis enables the use of stiffer springs and shocks without hurting the ride. This is because a stiff, non-flexing chassis transfers more force into the suspension where it can be dissipated by the springs and shocks instead of transferring the force to the occupants. A stiff chassis is also more responsive to roll rate tuning for balancing understeer and oversteer. This is one of the reasons why automotive engineers are continually investigating ways to stiffen chassis without adding weight.

In a final bit of reengineering to stiffen the body, we injected the chassis with catalyzed rigid structural polyurethane foam. Structural foam, in the 2 lb per cubic foot density that we used, can stiffen chassis members up to 40 percent.

Higher densities of foam can increase stiffness by up to 300 percent. Since we cannot retool custom parts to redo the Z's body, we figured that this would be an excellent, low-cost way of greatly increasing chassis stiffness. Injecting foam is not a new technique for chassis stiffening. The Infiniti Q45 uses this sort of foam in some of its chassis members to increase stiffness, as do a few other premium cars. In fact, the foam we chose is the foam recommended to repair damaged Q45s.

To get the correct foam for our project, we contacted Art Goldman, Foamseal's automotive product manager and author of an SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) paper on the use of structural foam for the stiffening of automotive unibody structures. We used Foamseal's two-component foam kit, p/n 11-22 to fill the main members of the chassis. Like we mentioned earlier, Foamseal is the supplier that I-CAR, a national certification group for quality auto repair, recommends for the repair of damaged, foam-filled chassis. The Foamseal kit uses a two-part catalyzed polyurethane foam, which quickly cures into rigid, waterproof, closed-cell foam. To prep the car, we carefully masked off all painted areas anywhere where the foam could drip. As this sort of foam is a thermosetting catalyzed plastic, we realized it could be icky if it spilled on paint or any part of the car's interior. This foam is nasty stuff. It is impervious to all known solvents and cleaners.

We were amazed at how this simple procedure improved the performance of the car. The chassis now almost feels like it has a roll cage. A sloped driveway can be driven up sideways with nary a creak. Even though the Z already has a pretty tight chassis, it feels more solid. The ride has improved and road noise has been reduced noticeably. We bet that the car will be even more responsive to chassis tuning measures in the future. If you are a slalom racer, a road racer, have a lowered car or even just want a smoother ride; foaming is a worthy, easy-to-do modification. Foamseal has foams in densities as high as 10 lbs per square foot if you desire to make things even stiffer.

Do not--I repeat--do not attempt to use cheap, hardware-store canned foam. This is not the same thing, and if injected into your chassis, will form a gummy mass that won't dry. Foamseal foam is a professional grade foam, which although it is a little unforgiving to cleanup mistakes, has superior mechanical properties and catalytic curing so it will dry even in an enclosed space.

Perfecto....

Future plans include a CSK/Hyperco based suspension (currently AGX/Hyperco based) on my stiff as a motherf*cker chassis. I know that will provide highly elevated levels of susupension performance, no doubt. Secondarily, I *believe* that suspension on my uber-rigid chassis will allow stock-like comfort levels. The best of both worlds. We shall certainly see.

My "ideal Classic suspension" would be akin to the modern-day Mazdaspeed 3, Chevy Cobalt SS, or nearly any BMW coupe. Every bit as capable and just as comfortable.

To refresh, here is the other one I ordered:
8 LB Density Urethane Foam

Common Applications: This 8LB density foam is extremely hard and rigid, like that of a soft wood. Your fingernail can penetrate its skin, however it cannot be dented by hand. Uses include casting, carving, sculpting, sign making as well as areas where an extremely durable and rigid foam is needed for support. More questions? [Try our Foam FAQ.]

Cat No. Kit Size(net weight) Approx. Coverage Price
FOAM-0804 4 LB Kit 1/2 Cubic Foot $20.50
FOAM-0816 16 LB Kit 2 Cubic Feet $62.00
FOAM-0880 80 LB Kit 10 Cubic Feet $244.00
5 or more kits of the FOAM-0880 $232.00 / Kit
Product Information:
Free Rise Density: 8.0 lbs cubic ft.
Expansion Rate: Approx. 8x Liquid Volume
Buoyancy (flotation): 54 LBs per Cubic Ft.
*Physical Properties:
Parallel Compressive Strength: 250 psi
Tensile Strength: 225 psi
Shear Strength: 130 psi
Flexural Strength: 350 psi

I am glad that the foam will quell noise and rattles in the vehicle. Desirable benefits, no doubt. Bonus.

However, my application is primarily a chassis/suspension upgrade. I want to greatly increase the vehicles torsional/structural rigidity and overall chassis strength.
2008-12-08 01:51:29
#34
Originally Posted by BoxedFox
That's actually a slightly different kind of foaming. More specifically, it's a different kind of foam. Great Stuff is a highly aerated, quick cure foam that's great for stopping heat and damping noise. It's not so good for structural purposes though.

Not to say that Brennan did anything wrong. I think Brennan made the right choice of materials there. I'm just not sure if it'll work for what Shawn B is looking to do.



Exactly, I was aiming to reduce road noise, rattles and hums all the while insulating the vehicle. Making the structure more ridgid was not the idea there, I believe thats where Shawn and I differ.
2008-12-08 09:28:58
#35
Darn I got the intense itch to do this now. That article was very informative, god bless Mike K.

Edit:

An interesting read:
AutoFoam Review - VSixers

Dudeman
2008-12-08 09:41:04
#36
Hey Shawn, I was just searching around and ran into this post, just figured I would throw some opinions at you, I trust you can add a grain or two of salt as you see fit.

"There are some merits to filling voids in an automobile's structure with a foam with a high flextural modulus of elasticity (or modulus of elasticity in shear), however as previously mentioned, I would tend to be concerned about moisture entrapment and the life expectancy of a foam subjected to constant mean-plus-alternating stresses.

In my line of work, we do a lot of testing using differing types of foam, even with the highest quality foams, there is a life-expectancy after which the response of the foam cannot be expected to equal to that of new foam. This is especially true with Polyurethane Ether and Ester (different manufacturing processes) foams, which tend to degrade rather rapidly especially in dense formulations. In my industry, typical transit drop events are limited to 10-20 full response cycles before the cushioning material is considered "spent".

As such, I would expect an immediate improvement in the stiffness of the chassis, however I would expect that to degrade as time goes on, where a properly designed stiffening system should have a life expectancy equal to that of the vehicle it is being installed on.

I might try foam filling the chassis on a car that I was planning on running at the "24hr of lemons" races, but not something that I would plan on doing to a car that I was planning on keeping for more than a couple years...

Just my two cents, you can fab or buy a stiffening kit for any car, also could create a 'cage as an integral part of your stiffening system, safety and performance in a single unit...

Be Blessed,

Ben


A solid will tend to be heavy as you were thinking, however if a nearly liquid piece of a polymer were "vacu-formed" into these cavities, one could expect the polymer to have mechanical properties which would not degrade as quickly as the same material in a foamed application. This could be used to the same effect as a laminate, however, processing would be a nightmare outside a laboratory.

Back to the foam idea,

I'll do some looking at some suppliers catalogs that I have, maybe I can find a two part foam that have a long advertised life, while maintaining a semi-rigid state

If the foam could be rigid enough to increase the torsional rigidity of the chassis, while maintaining ductile properties that could withstand the constant loading and unloading, this might be a good idea for a race vehicle that normally won't be exposed to high humidity or rain as well as not see the daily driver's number of loading events. Course for a race car, be it autocross-to-1/4 mile, weight would be an issue to be dealt with...

I'll do some looking and let you know if I come up with anything...

Ben"


Source:Chassis Stiffening with Foam? - Page 2 - General [M]ayhem

Dudeman
2008-12-08 23:29:19
#37
Originally Posted by SinisterSntra91
Exactly, I was aiming to reduce road noise, rattles and hums all the while insulating the vehicle. Making the structure more ridgid was not the idea there, I believe thats where Shawn and I differ.

Bada-bing.

And your build is utterly and completely sick. It blows my damn mind.

Originally Posted by Dudeman258
Darn I got the intense itch to do this now. That article was very informative, god bless Mike K.

Edit:

An interesting read:
AutoFoam Review - VSixers

Dudeman

Gimme me a minute to read that one.

Originally Posted by Dudeman258
Hey Shawn, I was just searching around and ran into this post, just figured I would throw some opinions at you, I trust you can add a grain or two of salt as you see fit.

Source:Chassis Stiffening with Foam? - Page 2 - General [M]ayhem

Dudeman

Ben is waaaay brighter than I am about foams.

However, because Mike Kojima stated this is the same type of foam used for Infinity vehicles, and Mike K talked to the SAE engineer at Fomo, I am pretty confident in the specific foam I am using.

Further, this just in from Sport Compact Car (RIP), February 2009, "Project S13" Part 2: Making it all work. Author Joey Leh.
Originally Posted by Sport


Built in 1989 and older than some of our readers, Project S13's fastback chassis is the softest of all the 240SXs. The back hatch glass, which might as well be made out of cast iron, leaves a massive non-structural void in the rear and thus the fastback is substantially less rigid than the couple model S13. With Super Lap Battle Street Class time attack rules stipulating that all factory glass must remain in place, there wasn't much that we could do about the hatch. But chassis stiffness can be addressed.

Although allowed by class rules, we didn't want a full roll cage in the car. Tying together the chassis with a custom welded cage would increase chassis stiffness by a large amount but this car sees more street time than track time and cracking our skulls open on metal tube doesn't exactly sound like a great Friday night. This left us with the options of stitch welding, bolt-on chassis bracing bars, a 4-point roll bar, and urethane foam. We may try out all these methods eventually, there's no such thing as a S13 that's too stiff, but the urethane foam is one of the most intriguing and so we started there first.

We've seen expanding urethane foam in automotive applications before. Mike Kojima tried it with success on Project Nissan 300ZX and it's used in such OEM applications as the Acura TL and the Mazda RX-8 R3. The stiffer a chassis is, the less it will flex against the forces applied to it, ie. suspension movement. This means that the forces from the road surface will be contained and absorbed by the suspension rather than being allowed to beat up the body shell. As the chassis is stiffened, ride quality will improve and even stiffer springs can be used before the chassis is upset again. Foam filling a chassis is a cheap and light method with which to dramatically increase chassis stiffness.

Keep in mind though, that the foam you want to put into your car isn't the cheap spray insulation that you can buy at you local Home Depot. Many of those foams have a density in the range of 0.5 pounds per cubic foot. We were after the 2 pounds per cubic foot injectable kits for the upper pillars (made by Handi-Foam) and the 8 pounds per cubic foot stuff for the rockers. Foams in the 8 pounds per cubic foot density are commonly used in marine applications and we've never come across one that was an easy to use two part injectable kit. Our expanding urethane foam pour kit was sourced from US Composites and came in two unassuming metal cans. The liquid in the two cans is mixed in a 1:1 ratio and has a claimed 45-second pour time. In actual use, the realistic pour time seems to be closer to half that. We mixed up about 20-ounces at a time and a paint mixer and power drill came in handy for us as we zapped the mixture for a mere 15-seconds before beginning the pour into our rocker panels. Any longer and the foam would begin to harden in the funnel as we poured, clogging any more of the mixture from entering Project S13.

The pourable urethane foam expands to eight times its liquid volume, meaning the 16 pound net weight size kit is more than enough to handle the entire 240SX chassis. Handling the foam itself isn't difficult at all, but proper prep is a must. The foam is nearly impossible to clean off once hardened and sets very quickly. Before mixing and pouring began, Project S13's interior was covered in a drop cloth, newspapers were placed underneath, and bits of duct tape were placed next to every orifice that we would be pouring into, so that the expanding foam could be captured inside instead of bubbling out. We also made sure to tape up the backside of the lower seat belt holes in the rockers, so that the foam didn't fill up the threads for the mounting bolts.

Although we don't have any exact stiffness increase percentages, a simple garage measurement yeilded a stiffer chassis with a 1/4-inch front and 1/8"-inch rear increase in frame to ground height as the car was jacked up at the front left, with a floor jack saddle height of 10.75-inches. Driving the car is also a revelation, with less creaks going up driveways and a noticably smoother ride over broken pavement.

Author: Joey Leh

Yes, I just typed all of that in by hand.

Mike K says that Infinity uses this type of foam and process. According to Joey Leh, apparently so does Honda and Mazda. I know from their web-site that Fomo products are used extensively in stiffening and reducing NVH in transport sized trucks. The type of trucks that see heavy duty work, day in and day out.

As usual, there are many lines of thought about any engineering application.

Given all the information, I'm going to roll my dice with Mike Kojima, the SAE engineer he spoke to at Fomo, Infinity, Honda, Mazda, and Joey Leh.
2008-12-09 00:35:58
#38
Sean,
If you really want to quiet down the cabin of your car since you have everything removed interior wise you might want to look into quietcar, its a full spray in sound deadener it aborbs the sound rather than masks it like the stick on spray adhesieve stuff, check their video on their main page quiets the car down by 20dB....very very impressive.

QuietCar

If I were you at this point I would take the extra step and apply this along with the foam and your car should be as quiet as a new Benz on the inside. I will be using this as well on my build.
2008-12-09 00:55:51
#39
Originally Posted by SinisterSntra91
Sean,
If you really want to quiet down the cabin of your car since you have everything removed interior wise you might want to look into quietcar, its a full spray in sound deadener it aborbs the sound rather than masks it like the stick on spray adhesieve stuff, check their video on their main page quiets the car down by 20dB....very very impressive.

QuietCar


OK. That certainly looks better than the Elemental Designs eDead sound mat that I have already purchased.

According to that website, it is only $300 bucks (or so, with shipping) to do an excellent job (5 gallons) on a compact car.

Dammit.

Originally Posted by SinisterSntra91
If I were you at this point I would take the extra step and apply this along with the foam and your car should be as quiet as a new Benz on the inside. I will be using this as well on my build.

Damn, damn, damn.

Sell the eDead? Buy Quiet Coat instead and apply it?

Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I am definitely after a NVH free chassis. Super stiff and quiet.

Now I have more contemplating to do.
2008-12-09 01:31:19
#40
Originally Posted by Shawn
OK. That certainly looks better than the Elemental Designs eDead sound mat that I have already purchased.

According to that website, it is only $300 bucks (or so, with shipping) to do an excellent job (5 gallons) on a compact car.

Dammit.


Damn, damn, damn.

Sell the eDead? Buy Quiet Coat instead and apply it?

Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I am definitely after a NVH free chassis. Super stiff and quiet.

Now I have more contemplating to do.



Can you return it?
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top