Thread: Ojibwe Forests Rally 2013

Thanks all. I'll post a few more I have and more if I find them (obviously I'm not taking pictures...).

Best finish was 4th last year at this same event, when it was a regional only. Got a 6th this year, with a much tougher field, so I can't complain.

Will post some pictures of Lake Superior Rally from the end of last year in a separate thread.

Ok, I just checked, and there is no "Hazzard County" in MN. But we distinctly drove by a large, very official MN-DOT looking sign that said "Hazzard County" and other competitors noticed it as well.

I think, looking at the routebook, that some smartass changed the "Hubbard County" sign. I salute them.

Video from the inside of the #50 Jetta, Al dantes Jr & Scott Rhudy.

I have no in-car. I wanted to focus entirely on driving, not fiddling with gadgets, so I left the GoPros at home.

Good results at the events Mark! This is getting me pumped for Rallycross Nationals in 3 weeks!



Kevin

Please post more videos, watching Wrc u never hear them say ouch lol

Hey Mark,
A couple of quick q's:
-whats your skid plate setup?
-can you fully lock up the rears with the hydro handbrake on your maxima setup? (I still am running the stock Se-r brake setup and can only lock up rear on loose stuff) have a 7/8 hydro setup
I am also gonna be doing a dual master setup soon similar to yours but based on the setup the early GrA cars used = bias bar welded to the brake pedal

Thanks,
Oscar

Skid plate is a frame of 1/2" square tube welded up to some 1/8" plates that extend up each side of the radiator core supports and bolt in place of the factory tie down points. Two sections of 3/16" 6061 T6 Aluminum bolted to that. Front tow point is actually just a 3/16" plate welded to the skid plate supports.

I can lock up the rears with the hydro handbrake, but I'm a gorilla and it's a 3/4. A 7/8 master with the smaller stock brakes is going to be really tough. Go down to a 5/8 if you can.

Also, try to find smaller masters for the dual setup than the 3/4 I have. I'm used to it, and as I said before, I'm a gorilla, but everyone else who has driven the car has panicked when they first users the brakes.

My brake setup will be based on Paul F. ("Cosworth'" on specialstage) calculations as you may have seen on Fb that I am his regular co-driver. In fact, going the old school GrA style was his suggestion. Although haven't driven the car in a while, it's scary not having confidence in the brakes particularly when LFBing. Gus started a setup similar to yours also based on Paul's calculations but gave up which is sitting in my closet. I will also prepare a setup for Gus. When I tell people I run out of vacuum after the first corner people don't believe me.
Paul in the past had suggested I try two things on the stock setup; an external vacuum reservoir - improved things a bit and his other suggestion was installing a smaller master cylinder which I was thinking of getting one off a Sentra XE or something. Gave up on that and had a conversation with him last week, even linked to your setup and he told me that it would be easier to do the GrA setup.

I am not a big fan of tow point being part of the skid plate. My current setup has been trouble free so far but I think I will go with a similar setup to Gus' which is a modified Evo skid plate.

Well, I believe you 100% on the vacuum issue. I got used to not having it after the first turn on a RallyCross course, but really didn't want to have it come and go on stage, so it got tossed.

Honestly, I love the brakes in the car, but people are flat-out shocked at how stiff the pedal is when they drive the car.

The skid plate attaches by 6 M10 bolts to the front of the frame horns. There is no stronger point on the front end of the car for the tow-point to attach to short of extending a tube back to the cage.

One nice thing about my skid plate is that I can drop just the rear half of the plate with 5 bolts, leaving the frame in place, and have access to change the oil or to reach the support bearing on the passenger side axle (or knock sensor, or starter, or anything else on the rear side of the engine.).

The rear tow point is a "meets the letter of the rule" item only, and in actual usage the factory tie-down (still there) would be a better option. But it did a heck of a job hauling a Fiesta R2 out of the ditch at OFPR.

Have you tried modifying the pivot point on the pedal? (havent looked at it yet, so not sure if its even possible...)
We towed Mason M out in his GC8 about a half mile out of stage and 12miles back to service at STPR one year with the factory rear tow hook