Thread: New to auto crossing, need a few tips!

My first autocross with the SCCA is in a few weeks in Warminster, PA. I am planning on running my B13 VE and possibly my B14 DE. If you can chime in on one or any or all of these that would be cool.

1) Well first of all, the tires currently on my car absolutely SUCK. They are mounted on awesome 15" Rota Slips, but the tires are AWFUL. I mean, absolutely the worst tires I've ever had. CLICK HERE if you want to know what kind they are. I urge you to avoid them unless you just want a cheap tire for your Toyota Prius.

So, I am wondering if you guys have any recommendations for a good autocross tire in 205/50/15 size. I'm not referring to or considering something like the Hoosier A6's which run $1000 for a set, but a streetable tire that I can swap out for the events and drive them home and back. No more than $600 for a set of 4. I'm doing this for fun. I have another set of OEM B14 wheels that I can mount new tires on if needed. I was reading up on some info for a good tire and saw that SCCA rules stipulate your tires must have a treadware rating of 140 or higher. There were a lot of tires with great reviews but with treadware of like 100. So any recommendations?

2) My B13 has K-Sport 36 way adjustable coilovers. How would you set them for an autocross event? Knowing speeds rarely exceed 60mph - but it doesn't seem that you'd simply set them to their firmest setting. I drive the car usually set on 10 in the front and 14 in the rear and it handles OK, except for those damn tires. The car is also lowered to a proper height to allow for adequate suspension travel. Although *perhaps* it could go down another .25 of an inch. For those of you who auto-x with dampening adjustments, do you find that it comes down to your style of driving, or there really is a fairly effective setting? BTW, my B14 has Tein adjustable coilovers, but they are 22 way.

3) I also have adjustable camber plates but I never mess with them.

4) I just installed my adjustable rear sway bar, but it looks kind of thin. IDK.

5) I have the NX2000 brake upgrade with goodridge lines. I'm running random generic brake fluid. Should I bleed that stuff out and go for the good stuff?

6) I have OEM Nissan brake pads. Should I go for something like the Hawks or Metal Masters? I've never had any problem with braking in the B13 with the NX upgrade, it stops wonderfully, but I've never autocrossed it. The B14 however has the stock brakes, and they fade after 1 or 2 hard stops. So that car definitely needs new pads if I took it to an autocross.

7) The battery in my B13 is relocated to the fender to make room for the cold air intake, fuse boxes and oil catch can. Will the tech inspectors give me a hard time about this? The B14 battery is however in the standard location.

8) I need a recommendation for a good helmet. I know that typically SCCA events have loaner helmets but I'd like my own. I've seen some as low as $200 and as much as $4,000. I'd like one under $250 if possible.

Hmm I think that's about it. Sorry for all the questions, if anyone gets a chance to answer any, that would be cool. I'm excited to finally try autocrossing. I've done plenty of road racing and am in process of getting my SCCA certification to race in their events but not until later in the summer.

Thanks

Quoted above

Wow,a lot of good questions!

1)-Tires.You'll get a ton of different recommendations,but here is my.02.I used the Dunlop Star Specs last year,and am going with the Dunlop ZII's this year.Great daily/autocross tire,wears well.Depending on where you but them,you should be around $450,=mounting etc.I used mine for about 10,000 miles of daily driving,and maybe 200 runs at autocrosses.Still have 2 out of the 3 wear indicators showing tread ,but they are moving on for the ZII's.
2)- Shocks. setting wise,start with the adjustment at about 60% stiff.If you don't have better tires,the settings aren't going to help much anyway,but start there and adjust either end accordingly.I'll bet you'll end up almost full stiff on the rear of your b14.You want the front to be soft enough to bite entering the corner,but not so soft that it bounces,and then starts mad understeering.The rear needs to be stiff enough that when you lift the throttle to enter a corner,it wants to start turning.Don't lower it,it really just makes things worse.

3)-A good alignment will make all the difference.Find a shop that will set it to what you want,not just within spec.A couple of degrees neg camber in the front,zero toe.The B14 rear isn't adjustable,so.....

4)- Rear bar,I assume? Stiffer is better.

5)-Better fluid,nah.As long as it's fresh and clean once a year,you'll be fine.

6)-Brakes. I would suggest Hawk HPS pads for the front of the B14.Great daily wear,no noise,will stop hard without incident.Anything more aggressive will lock the wheels real quick.The rear doesn't matter,they don't do much anyway.

7)-Battery. Just make sure it's bolted down securely.No bungees,or other ghetto stuff.A metal bar similar to the OEM setup.

8)-Helmet. I always buy the least expensive,comfortable helmet,open faced, that I can get.I figure if I hit my head so hard that I need a helmet at an autocross,I've got waaay bigger concerns than what happened to my head.Like how do you flip this car back over?

My experience is based on my B14.I can't accurately speak for the B13,but the general stuff applies.Walk the course a bunch,you'll want to know it well so you aren't surprised during your runs.Even though you have road course experience,go into this with open eyes,mind, and ears.There will be people there like me,who have done this for 20-30 years,and will have some good stuff to say.I know around our region,we want everyone to be fast,and enjoy what they're doing,so don't be afraid to ask questions.Hell,ask me,I'm glad to get you going.Scroll down the autocross section here and check out some of my videos,I post after every event I go to.I get tired of being the only guy around here who autocrosses

Smooth is fast.

Practice, practice, practice, practice, practice, practice.

If you are new you shouldn't be worrying about adjusting. Set it and focus on your driving. You won't be fully using the car anyways until you.... practice.

Thanks guys for all the answers! I have a few more questions now that I've read & digested some of your responses:

1) On my 92 SE-R w/ the SR20VE swap, I have 15" Rota slipstreams with those HORRIBLE tires. However, on my B14 200sx SE-R, I have the Hankook Ventus V2's mounted on 16" Konigs. Link to those tires here:
205/50-16 Hankook Ventus V2 Concept H437 Tires

The Hankook tires are prob 10x better than the tires on the B13.

I also have a problem with traction and spinning in the B13 VE on the Rotas, in 1st gear. (206whp) So I'm thinking about swapping the wheels. Putting the 16" Hankooks onto the B13 and the Rotas with the crap tires on B14, since I'll be autocrossing it less. What do you think?

2) I also have another set of OEM B14 SE-R wheels w/ Kuhmo Escta tires with decent tread. They seemed to handle OK when I had them on my B14, I wonder how they'd figure into all of this.

3) Battery. The battery IS bolted down in the front driver's side fender. It doesn't wobble around or anything.

4) Helmet: I will take gumby's advice and try some on. I do actually have a large head, not too many helmets or hats fit unless they are adjustable.

5) Oh and another question I forgot to ask, I know with the SCCAA we as participants are supposed to "work" (standing there replacing cones during the event) but is it like, all set up beforehand or is it one of those things where no knows whats going on?

Thanks guys for the advice!!!!!!!!!!!

-Get a helmet thats rated SA2010 so you get to use it for a longer time and at other events like rally-x, track events etc... I have a couple different ones and have been happy with my cheap Zamp helmet. In fact, I just ordered a full face version that is being shipped as we speak.
-Hawk HPs are good, heard lots of bad things about EBC but personally my only choice are Porterfield R4. They are a little harsh on rotors but lasted me several rallys without issues. They have a street friendy version the R4S.
-I would at least cover the + terminal with some plastic so it won't be an issue. I still think the location you have from what you are describing your battery is not ideal/safe.
-The Dunlop Star Specs are decent choice but there are other similar choices like the rs3 etc...
-You will be split up into 2 group. While one group runs the other hangs out and collects cones. Most auto-x have plenty of people so you most likely will be stationed with several others. One will hold the flag, another the radio and the rest will run to pick up cones. Usually timing etc is done by more experienced people.

This ^^^^

Unless you're driving a plow pig FWD Sentra and have to snap the wheel and trail brake the crap out of it to get it to turn.....

Yes I'm aware about having to "work" and pick up any fallen cones. Nog big deal to me, sounds like fun actually. Maybe I'll tell them I don't have a battery, and I run electric pumps. Its hard to see unless you look for it