Thread: AutoX Questions

Yeah can vouch for the co-drive. I had one of the local instructors (skysheperd from the old forum) co-drive at a previous event. He was MUCH faster but by sitting in with him and vise versa I almost halved the gap by the end of the day. Not something I would have been able to do just trying on my own.

For anyone tuning in, here's my autocross quick-start guide:

• Durability - fix mechanicals that are broken, and make the car is reliable while you learn and have fun. On B13/B14, get aftermarket engine mounts, even though it bumps you up a class.
• Tires - Your number one upgrade and consumable. A separate set of wheels with say, Street Touring type Summer tires like Azenis, RE-11, etc. will let you do your thing without having to worry about wearing out or getting frustrated by your street tires.
• Participate - make it a point to go to events, even if it means going outside your town/comfort zone. Get seat time, exposure to driving/setup tips, and make valuable friends all over the place.
• Learn - real guided practice. Attend autocross schools if your area or neighboring region offers them. Evolution autocross schools with top-shelf instructors are also a good value, at even $200-$300 day.
  

After doing all that, then open up your wallet and figure out what you want to do.

You can't be really picky when it comes to finding a clean B13/B14 SE-R. There's not a lot of good ones left for sale, unless you know where to get one locally or already have one. Ultimately, they'll be near identical in performance potential. Even then, the lowest hanging fruit for anyone is skill.

It will all come down to how competitive are you, and how competitive is your region or local group.

If you have too many mods...you'll wind up in SM or XP, which a B series will not remotely be competitive in. (unless you really are in a weak region)

SM Nationals was won this year by Dave/PJ driving the Panda. (S14)

In fact 6 of the top 14 spots were won by S chassis drivers in SM.

Jenna took 5th in ST Ladies in an S13 as well.

Here's the link to the results

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Yeah if your serious about it I would go with the S-chassis...it hurts to say that, but the B-Series cars just aren't competitive anymore. Nationally, even the Spec V can't handle DS that well. I don't think anyone has really prepared a B-Series car for like MOD or Prepared classes though. On a local level, run whatcha brung and enjoy it!

That being said, the Civics were just bounced out of ST and are basically in their own class, so let the bench racing begin!!!!

The B13 SE-R and NX2000 will be lumped in the "Civic" class. The B14 and B15 may not be allowed in any ST class at National level events, unless they correct their omission (the letter I wrote hasn't been reviewed, yet).

http://www.sr20-forum.com/autocross-rallycross/50830-write-letters-b14-b15-scca-solo-st-classification.html.

This structure for "STC" was sent to the SCCA board for approval, which usually rubber-stamps any recommendation from the Solo Events Board.

Yeah...I remember sending the SEB your form several times about the B14 in FSP and nothing ever got done. The really need to get their act together. This new class doesn't really do anything...it will still be dominated by the SI's. Stoooooopid! I'm glad I got out of ST/SP and into stock with the Spec V.

What do you guys think the best tire sizes are for the b13 in fsp without having to mess with the fenders to much

"Serious business" would be Hoosier 275/35-15 front, 255/40-13 rear. PatG tried and sold some custom wheels that allowed him to fit those huge tires up front, but I don't remember what kind of fender massage it took.

I once ran Hoosier A6 225/45-15 (they run wide) that sat very square on 15x8 +30mm wheels up front, and 205/50-15 on 15x7 +35mm in back. No clearance issues. I had just gotten Progress coil-overs and hadn't dialed them in well, and wasn't happy with return on investment (wear/performance). You'll want some very healthy static camber up front to make it work best.

275's in the front of a B13... I had heard of 245s ( and taking a lot of work to get them to fit).. but never 275s. Wouldnt that just hurt your time more than anything with the added weight? Or cause unwanted stress on the axles?