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Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

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Posts: 231-240 of 242
2014-01-22 17:32:24
#231
Lessee.

Since the last update:

+ Installed the N1 water pump
+ Installed upper and lower oil pans.
+ Installed alternator and power steering pump mounting blocks, plus passenger side axle bearing bracket. Painting up most pieces before they go back on the engine to help make it easy to clean.
+ Installed thermostat housing
+ Installed stainless steel exhaust manifold studs (with copper anti-seize)
+ Installed rear cover and rear main seal.
+ Painted and installed rocker cover.
+ Lots and lots of fasteners on the new engine are stainless steel socket cap screws now. Pretty and in MN, functional.
- Can't find the upper radiator water neck or the smaller water neck for the rear of the block.
+ Installed the main water manifold on the back with G Spec hoses.
+ Cleaned and painted the upper half of the intake manifold, also the fuel rail.
+ Installed SR20DET 370cc injectors with all new seals.
- Need to get fuel rail spacers (this engine was missing them when I got it, as the fuel rail had been pulled).
+ NGK IR plugs
+ NGK plug wires
+ Fumoto oil valve (with lock to prevent it opening accidentally, and quick attach hose, now I can do oil changes with the skidplate on!).
+ Got in properly sized (for AC delete and G Spec pulley) Gates Racing belts.
+ Got in XTD lightweight flywheel
+ Got in ARP flywheel bolts
+ Got in an ACT 6-puck, sprung hub clutch and HD pressure plate. The Excedy stage 2 was getting hot after several stages, swelling up and not wanting to disengage entirely. Other than that, it was great and I'd happily use one in a street car. It'll stay as a spare.
+ Got in two 5/8" Wilwood master cylinders (to reduce braking effort).
- F*****g Optima s**t the bed again.

It looks like a real engine now, sitting on the stand. Just gotta find a few missing pieces, clean up the power steering pump and lower intake manifold and it should be ready to swap into the rally car.
Might rebuild the second transmission if the M-Factory LSD gets finalized soon and install that.
2014-01-26 20:32:23
#232
Post some pics ......
2014-01-29 17:26:39
#233
Originally Posted by ciclon1
Post some pics ......



Well, it basically looks like an SR20DE. Not too exciting, but:




(Pardon my rat's nest of a garage...)
Last edited by Vector on 2014-01-29 at 17-28-35.
2014-01-30 05:48:36
#234
Nice nice , i like the blue belts
2014-02-05 15:32:32
#235
Originally Posted by ciclon1
Nice nice , i like the blue belts


Thanks! They're the perfect finishing touch!

But really, I didn't buy them because they're blue, they're Gate's "Racing" Series and the outer band (the blue stuff) is a different material than normal belts. Supposed to be more durable? We'll see.
2014-02-05 15:35:32
#236
Oh, and last night I bought a B15 Spec-V, and now I need to clear the garage so I can fit a car in there, so I need to get a move on and wrap the engine rebuild up.
2014-02-05 16:54:41
#237
Those aren't rocker arm stoppers are they? Do not install those. Would you rather a rocker arm pop out causing you to temporarily lose a cylinder until you find the shims and rocker arm and put them back in place or would you rather the rocker arm stay put and bend a valve against the piston instead?
2014-02-05 17:06:08
#238
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Those aren't rocker arm stoppers are they? Do not install those. Would you rather a rocker arm pop out causing you to temporarily lose a cylinder until you find the shims and rocker arm and put them back in place or would you rather the rocker arm stay put and bend a valve against the piston instead?


Yes they are, and I've debated this before. I am aware of the risks they pose. I'd never use them in a street car, but in the race car, I'm willing to take the risk of more severe damage to cover the zone between spitting shims/arms because I don't have RAS and breaking stuff because I do.
2014-02-05 19:28:21
#239
As long as you know the risks.

I've been enjoying your updates here. Keep them coming. =]
2014-03-03 04:56:48
#240
Well, I finally found the water neck that goes on the rear of the block by the oil filter assembly. Whee! Now I can really put together the back side of the engine. Cleaned and painted it tonight. Found it while looking for some clams for a woodworking project I have going on. Still can't find the upper front water neck though. Might not have ever been with the car, I really can't recall. Have been thinking about tracking down a G20 in a lot and pulling it, but the winter has just been brutal and my motivation to go fight with old parts in a junkyard has never been lower. Anyone have one laying around they don't need and would be willing to ship for the cost of postage a few bucks to cover their expenses?

Same with the fuel rail spacers?

Took the battery (Optima Yellow Top) back to Sam's club to see if I could exchange it. I bought it in June 2012, exchanged it in May 2013, went to exchange it again and the guy said "You just want to return this instead?" Gave me every cent back after nearly two-years. S*** battery, but great service.

Ordered up an XS Power D3400. Deep cycle/starting, AGM, 1000CA, 135min reserve, ruggedized casing, blah, blah. Hope it does better than the Optima. The specs are certainly better (750CA, 120min reserve for the Opti).
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