Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

Thanks a lot Vector, I did forget about the brake pads :P, thanks for the hint too.

I'm going to use the same combination as you(front and rear). My class regulation's only allow me to use original parts and it has several restrictions on brakes too (discs size, multi-piston calipers are banned) I can remove the brake booster, either using a tandem master with a different size or dual setup with balance bar. I'm more on the dual setup because it will let me set my seat on a better position and It will let me adjust the brakes' balance on the way (we run 8 events per year, 3 of them endurance races: 2.5 hours each, no re-fueling/no tyre's change).



Whats your pedal ratio?

Thanks for all your help

Stock. I haven't measured it, but it's whatever the stock ratio is. Using the stock pedal with the stock attachment point for the brake.

Gonna check those numbers, maybe with a better ratio I could get a softer pedal..Im not a big guy :P...

Fan of your car, Ill be checking for the videos and your updates... Ill let you know how my projects progress... Im about to get the rollcage welded..Ill be posting some pics

LSPR 2012 Stage 15 Car 710 - YouTube

Mark, did you do anything special to the exhaust system? Did you add/strengthen/stiffen hangars to keep it from banging around under the car?

Mike

Sorry to be so slow in getting back.

Currently the exhaust is a bit of a frankenstein job.

It's based off a VRS 2.5" system.
There is currently a high-flow "bullet" style cat in the stock location. This is going to be removed, but I ran out of time before LSPR. This has a 3/8" rod mounted to it that goes into the stock rubber exhaust hangers, but that also holds it up an inch or two higher than the stock system.
The rest of the VRS piping uses stock hangers and locations.
At the end of the axle-back section I welded on a ~18" extension, which in turn has a V-band flange welded to it. Just before the flange, this has a 5/16 (?) rod that's bent into a V with hooks on the end welded to it. It uses stock hangers and mounting points again, but is set up such that they can't move much side-to-side or up and down (they're at the same angle as the V).
A magnaflow bullet style cat has a v-band flange weleded to it and it gets attached at the very rear. No muffler.

AFAIK there was no significant movement of this setup, even at an LSPR that was rough enough to rip off my fuel tank skidplate.

Been quiet since LSPR, but I'm gearing up to make a lot more noise come spring...



Not pictured: SR16VE pistons for high-compression fun Dropped the block and head off for hot tanking, decking and honing. Waiting on rings & timing chain tensioner stuff (remind me to pass on buying from nissanpartszone.com next time. Sloooooow.)

Awesome Mark! What cams did you go with? What will you run for fuel now?

Also, if that cork gasket on the left is for the lower oil pan I would not use it. I would stay with the factory gasket maker. I have never had a problem with the liquid gasket maker.

Mike

Cams are Brian Crower Stage 2. Plan to tune conservatively to run on pump fuel (91 ideally). E85 might happen if need be, but it's a real pain to manage fuel in the middle of nowhere, and if I have to truck it in, might as well do VP or Sunoco 104.

Yeah, everyone who makes a set (these are Cometic) feels the need to include a lower oil pan gasket, along with a water pump gasket. Neither of which will be used.

So:

Brian Crower Stage 2 cams
Circuit Sports adjustable cam gears
Circuit Sports rocker arm stoppers
ACL Race bearings - mains, rods & thrust washers
ARP studs - Mains, head, rod ends
Cometic MLS head gasket + full engine set
High-port engine, hot tanked, decked and honed.
Planning on some mild porting of the head (gasket matching)
New OEM Nissan rings, timing chain guides & tensioner
SR16VE pistons, to be machined to enlarge the valve reliefs (+1mm diameter, +1mm depth)
Nismotronic RT NEMU, Innovate WBO2