Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

The large lamps are 55w HID, and the small are 55w halogen, so 330w, or about 30A for the light bar. The headlights are 35w HID, so add another 6A or so. The car has an upgraded alternator bench tested to 158A with upgraded wiring and an Optima yellow top.

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This makes me re-examine my decision to mount my lights onto my bumper. Looking good

Yeah, bumper mounted lights always seem to flex a lot unless they have extra mounting, and then who mount them on the bumper? Just move all the mounts back, and there ya go.

This was one of those things I thought about for months or years and then just did something entirely different in the course of an afternoon.

Wait, that was bad math. I did the numbers for 6 lights (which I guess is right, since the two are off temporarily). For the full bar it's 37A + 6A for the headlights, so 43A with everything on.

where did you get the alternator? or who built it?

It's an OEM-style replacement alternator for a Maxima (I forget the year but want to say 97), which uses a 125A alternator from the factory. This one is an NSA brand, and I like that they come with the bench test for the actual alternator.

It requires a bit of adaptation to use on an SR20, but it's nothing too tough. Splice a new connector onto the wiring harness and a spacer on the mounting bolt.

So, I was going to go to a rallycross today to shake down the car and try to find any problems before LSPR.

I went to swap wheels to snows yesterday, and found that my driver's front wheel bearing was shot. Pulled the spindle and took it to my buddy's shop to press the busing out. All the grease had leaked out the inner seal. I though I had a seeping CV boot, but no, it was the bearing. Turns out when I put in the current axle, which came from an ABS car, I should have swapped in a little flange when I took off the tone ring. Oh well, at least I know why it failed. Got everything buttoned back up late in the evening.

Today I backed the car out and the water pump blew out. Sigh. Parts'll be here on Tuesday.

The point was to find bugs before the rally, right? Then it was a success, even though I never left the driveway. I guess.

Hi Vector,

I would like to ask you a couple of questions about your brakes setup:
1- what sizes are you using on your Dual Master Cylinder configuration? (Awesome job btw!)
2- Are you still using NX2000 calipers with that setup?
3- How about the pedal feedback? is it hard to apply brakes?

I'm working on a roadrace project and I'm thinking about going without the brake booster.

Thanks in advance & Regards from Costa Rica!

Diego

1. Both front and rear are 3/4" Wilwood High-Volume masters.
2. NX2000 front calipers & rotors, Maxima/G20 rear calipers with JDM NX2000 rear rotors.
3. The master cylinders I have are oversized for the calipers. This means the pedal is hard as a rock and doesn't give a lot of feedback. I've gotten used to it, but others who have driven the car tend to just about crap themselves the first time they need to use the brakes It does take a *lot* of force.

Also, you didn't ask, but it matters a lot. I'm running race compound brake pads, with Carbotech XP10 in the front and XP8 in the rear. They really don't work well until they get a little heat in them, but then the overall braking power is great.

Over the winter I will be replacing the 3/4" masters with smaller (yet to be determined if they're going to remain the same or be staggered, need to have the actual math done by someone).

If I were only deleting the power booster and using a normal tandem master cylinder, I'd probably just drill a new attachment point on the brake pedal to increase the mechanical advantage. But since I have the dual masters, it may make more sense to have the rear smaller than the front to keep piston travel similar)

Lots of stuff and vids to come from last weekend's LSPR once I get a chance to sit down in front of my pc with video software. Had 5 cameras running (though which were on at any time is pretty random, unfortunately), so there should be some good video somewhere in there.

Wheel bearing is dying again already. Guess I have a distorted bore in the knuckle, and I'll need to track down a replacement. Need to think about getting spares too. Camber is off on the driver's rear, but I suspect it's just that the camber bolt slipped during a landing from one of the jumps. Springs are waaay too high rate for this event. Tore off my fuel tank protector in the first two stages. Started out the weekend poorly, but felt damn good by the end.