Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

My friend , unfortunly I had a knee injury that put a stop on my build , I was planing to come back in SB rally 2012 , my knee end up needing surgery for witch I had last Monday , I'm not getting much better and I have a good idea that I may have to go in for surgery again , I'm seeing the doctor today but is not guaranty with out a new surgery I'll have a quick or fast enuf recovery , I will eventually so for now I read and search alot.
Gus

No worries.

[/quote]
Can you further explains this ? Can you post a more clear picture of how yours works, I think after a spoke with a frien from Boston also rally sentra we need to put more or less force to the MC spearly from each other to avoid lucking ? is this what you referring too?

I k oe the benefits of not using Boosterpump but if this is going to be a Pain in my A I'll go back to the old set up witch I had no Problems with before I never LF break .
Gus[/QUOTE]

If you look at this picture:


You can kind of see the Wilwood adjustable balance bar. Here's a picture of it not in the car for reference:



It has a spherical bearing in the center which goes inside a tube. I welded a tab to that tube and then attach that via a couple of yokes and a rod to the brake pedal. When I step on the brake, the force is directed through the spherical bearing to the center of the balance bar.

The balance bar connects to the master cylinders via the threaded clevis/yokes (the black blocks). If they are both the same distance from the spherical bearing, then equal force will be sent to each master cylinder. If one is closer to the bearing, then it will see more force than the one farther. This way I can precisely adjust the ratio of braking power between the front and rear. You can adjust the bias by restricting pressure to the rear lines with a valve (that's essentially what the big barrel proportioning valves on the stock master cylinder are doing), but the adjustments aren't as flexible or precise as a balance bar.

The cable coming out of the box on the left side (in the picture, right side if you're in the car), connects to a remote knob where I can adjust the bias from inside of the car. It's not necessary to have, but nice to be able to tweak. There are times I've wished for that ability while on track and fighting a car with awful brake balance.

The way you've connected both masters to a rigid bar will not allow any bias adjustments, and will also have issues if the piston stroke is different front/rear (which it will be).

I use left foot braking heavily. If I didn't, I'd probably not bother doing dual masters, just a good, quality tandem master.

B13's are beautifull, man.

Once a guy with a BMW said my car looked like his car, a 88 bmw m3.

Nothing is as reliable as a b13 se-r or nx2000, it,s just the best car in the world by far for the price

Thank you Mark for the replay, the red box you made it right ? The adjustable balance bar your purchase that right ? And the remote cable ? Have you figure the amount of pressure you will have to apply to the break Pedal to come to a stop with your current set up ? Regarding the Hydrolic Han Break the MC u are using is that a Remoted Reservoir Compact MC ?
Gus

Yes, I built the red box. It's just 1/8" steel and a couple pieces of angle iron. I used 10mm bolts to mount it, rather than the 8mm the stock booster has.

The balance bar is purchased, and the remote adjuster as well. Amazon had the best deal, at around $100 for both.

I have *not* calculated the amount of force necessary. There has been a great deal of discussion on specialstage about doing just that: Need a hydraulic hand brake. Need Options (ignore the thread title, it has little to do with the actual discussion).

I keep meaning to figure out the pedal ratio of the stock unit and then ask one of the guys in that thread to calculate it for me. I am beginning to suspect that the 3/4" masters are too big and one or both may need to be downsized.

The master on the handbrake is indeed a Wilwood 260-6089 compact remote reservoir master.

So, in this picture you can see the hole through the firewall where the actuating rod goes to the balance bar:


This hole is usually filled by the brake booster. I am worried about failing tech with a 2-1/2" hole in the firewall (and even more concerned about getting dust and water in though it). I was going to try and cobble something up with pieces of rubber (old tire tube) to mostly seal it, but then a buddy of mine (the mechanic who does all my tire/suspension work) pointed out that I could use a steering rack bellows which should fit just about perfectly. I have a couple laying around that were the wrong size for the SE-R, so it's free to try. Hopefully I'll get some actual rally car work done tomorrow evening.

Finally got back to do a little work on the car again.

Fabbed up a bracket to mount the hydro handbrake alongside the shifter.




Cleaned up the sound deadening in the trunk and threw down some paint to protect the areas where the stock paint got scratched up. Getting ready to mount a battery box in front of the spare tire.


Not new, but here is where the cordless impact gets stored in the car for tire changes if needed between services.


The lights. I have to figure out how to mount these, so I put them all there to get a feel for the size. The center lights are Hella Rallye 4000 spot patterns (9") and the outers are Hella FF1000 in a driving pattern (7"). All are 55W HID.


The overall car as it stands right now.

Looks great! What are you doing for fire extinguishers?

A couple of Amerex 2# A:B:C extinguishers with DOT brackets. Have actually had these for a few years in the old RallyCross car, had them serviced in October, and ready to go.

Mark is looking good , I like it Nice color choice, I had two whites already , this ones was going to be white also but change my mind at last minute and went with blue , love how mud looks in white cars lol
Gus