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Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

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Posts: 131-140 of 242
2011-11-30 15:38:23
#131
Originally Posted by Vector
The handbrake was about $120 on eBay (search for Glow-shift or blackworks). The master they come with is generally considered to be complete crap and liable to stick and cause the rear brakes to stay on. A Wilwood master like I used is about $50. You have to have a tap (5/16"-16 IIRC) to rethread the linkage, but it's aluminum so it's super easy to do.

The handbrake can be set up to be either a pull up or a push, so you can orient it like the stock handbrake and mount it in the same area. If you had the center console in place it would have to be modified.

You also have to completely re-run your rear brake lines.

But... Bob is absolutely right about this:



There are hydraulic handbrakes that use dual inline master cylinders which will work with the stock split system (about $250, not counting replacing the crap masters with good ones, so $350 with).

Or you could Tee the two rear lines together, but you'd lose the redundancy of the stock split system.

In my case all of the brake lines are new and custom, and the front/rear are 100% separate systems, because I need that to provide the adjustable biasing.

This isn't really a casual mod.


Thanks for all the info, i'll start by buying the parts needed, when i'm ready to do it i'll talk to you.

Nice project you got there bro, btw i did a few rally in Canada but only on tarmac, not on gravel.

With a Sentra B13 and a few mods and 1 other tarmac rally with my modded nx2000
2011-12-16 17:01:57
#132
So, the heater in my garage crapped out, and besides making it cold enough to discourage casual car work, it's also sucked up all my time sorting it out. Stupid this is it came down to carbon deposits on a microswitch that allowed enough current through to fool the thing's diagnostics, but not enough to close a relay. Couple hundred in parts and hours of time pspent and it came down to a 5-minute job removing said switch and taking a file to a couple of 1/32" diameter carbon spots.

Oh well, at least in the breaks I took from working on the heater I got enough garage cleaning done that I could move the rally car forward far enough to wire in the last of my shop lights. When I built the garage 6 years ago I only installed two light fixtures, each 4x32W T8 fluorescent fixtures. I had two halogen shop lights at the back of the garage, and I figured those would do for bright light to work under and the other lights would cover the general area.

The halogens would cause my auto-darkening welding helmet to be dark all the time and sucked so much power and generated so much heat that I gave up on them. So this summer, just before the work on the car really took off, I bought 4 more fluorescent fixtures, but could only install 3 because the rally car was planted on jackstands right under the location for the last one.

With the lights all in place, and the heater back on, it's a very pleasant place to work on cars again.

Hope to have the brake plumbing finished this weekend.
2011-12-17 22:27:49
#133
Mark hi my name is Gus , I don't know if we had spoke before or not ,I'm the guy that ran the white Rally sentra ,two matter in fact one I wreck in TN 07 and the other in NY 09 . I'm currently building my 3 sentra and just recently finish installing two willwood MC like yours and the stock Break pedal , I try installing the willwood break pedal but it was impossible with out changing the steering column location , I manage to use the stock booster pump as the base for the two MC , I do have a few question about your build, will be good if we can speak on the phone , well easier for me then writing .
Gus 8606906318

Last edited by ciclon1 on 2011-12-19 at 17-01-24.
2011-12-19 00:47:05
#134
Originally Posted by nacho-nismo
sick build. get some videos of b13 rally action


This is a video I put together long time ago
2011-12-19 00:55:49
#135
Originally Posted by Vector
Oh, I'll throw in one more. This is of my RallyCross car. This wasn't the most recent evolution of the car, but something during the middle of the years I was running it. But it's a good photo (of an ugly car).



Never call this car Ugly they are very sentimental :-)
2011-12-19 17:08:17
#136
Vey good build, I finish reading the entierd post last night very very nice , like I say if you have any question just shoot me a pm or call , I'm not going to guaranty I know the answer for it , I did rally my sentra in a total of 10 rally's 4 with the completed stock first b13 and 6 with my second more moded b13 , I ran TN, SC ,WV ,NY and NH rallies , I ran the b13 with stock DE and later with the same DE + Turbo , now with all the in mind and the good and bad experience , I'm building what I hope to be for long time to come my thirt and last B13 .
Gus
2011-12-19 17:24:33
#137
Gus I've watched and occasionally commented on both your previous builds with much interest.

I'm curious about the brakes that you are setting up now.

What benefit are you looking for in switching to a dual master setup?

For me, it was all about being able to add the balance bar, but you appear to be running a fixed assembly with no biasing.
2011-12-19 17:30:52
#138
Originally Posted by ciclon1
Never call this car Ugly they are very sentimental :-)


Umm, it had an "inner" beauty, but that car was ugly on the outside. Rust you could literally put your arm through in the rockers, door jams 100% missing. The front fenders flapped going downm the freeway because the bottom attachments had rusted out. It was the site of all my "educational" welding attempts, including ones with my first, awful, welder. Windsheild was cracked, lights were pitted beyond recognition.

Damn I loved that car though. Beat holly hell out of it for years and it just kept going. Nearly rolled it a handful of times, crashed it at 70+ mph on an ice race course, ended up with only a broken foglight and drove it back home after the event.
2011-12-19 17:34:22
#139
Gus! How's the new car build coming along? I'll have to stop by one of these days to check it out.
2011-12-19 19:24:17
#140
Originally Posted by Vector
Gus I've watched and occasionally commented on both your previous builds with much interest.


I'm sorry that I didn't remember you I had to go back in my build post to remember


Originally Posted by Vector


I'm curious about the brakes that you are setting up now.

I was originally going to ran same is last car, NX front and SER rears, I ran this set up with and with out turbo set up and never had any problem with it .
After doing some reading and talking with a few people I decided to ran the same set up minus Booster pump, I was told the the break feeling is more precise , I purchase some MC size 3/4 and 7/8 , after talking to a long friend from NC he told me that with my break set up and MC'S minutes the booster pump I was going to required to much force to stop the car , 180lbs + so after talking to him he suggested that I should run front willwood 4 piston with the 11,3/4 disc and on the rear do the same I was thinking Maxima like your set up + I will have to change the 3/4 and 7/8 mc to 2 - 7/10 mc , this is not yet a final set up I have to do some more reading and I'm looking in to speaking with un person in particular ho I think is the Wiz of building Rally cars, Legere .
As far as why two MC , mi very first reason truly and is personal is to always have breaks , if fronts goes you got rear and if rear goes you got fronts, if both go your f..k lol , I'm planing in keeping the stock cable ebreak in addition to the hydronic ebreak , which I see you doin also god call . Personal because back went I was a pup 17 I lost breaks in a Peugot 407 went a cross a main intersection in red luckily missing every passing car and coming to a stop in to a business front :-( not a very pretty seeing never want to feel the same again .


Originally Posted by Vector

For me, it was all about being able to add the balance bar, but you appear to be running a fixed assembly with no biasing.

Can you further explains this ? Can you post a more clear picture of how yours works, I think after a spoke with a frien from Boston also rally sentra we need to put more or less force to the MC spearly from each other to avoid lucking ? is this what you referring too?

I k oe the benefits of not using Boosterpump but if this is going to be a Pain in my A I'll go back to the old set up witch I had no Problems with before I never LF break .
Gus
Last edited by ciclon1 on 2011-12-20 at 14-07-38.
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