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Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

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Posts: 121-130 of 242
2011-11-21 17:26:27
#121
Thanks for the update. Looking forward to the pics of your new fabrication work.

Mike
2011-11-23 04:11:01
#122
Side view of the balance bar box:


Top view showing the balance bar box and the dual master cylinders:


Linkage to brake pedal underneath dash:


The hydraulic handbrake. This is a cheap eBay K-Sport/Glow Shift/Blackworks/whatever. I pitched the crappy master they come with and installed a Wilwood 3/4" compact master. You can also see how I added a bleeder valve after it. A lot of people don't do this and have a hell of a time getting the system bled fully.


This will be mounted alongside the shifter, like this:


I took some more photos of the whole car as it stands now, but either my camara or the eye-fi card corrupted them. Hmph.
Last edited by Vector on 2011-11-28 at 20-43-04.
2011-11-24 15:46:13
#123
looks so good man.
2011-11-27 23:14:05
#124
cars coming along great...subscribed
2011-11-28 14:36:59
#125
Mark, what are you doing to prevent backflow from the handbrake? In my mind, when you engage that brake, what will stop it from pumping fluid forward as well as backwards?

I've never plumbed one of these, so I'm more curious than anything else.
2011-11-28 20:40:29
#126
Originally Posted by rallyser
Mark, what are you doing to prevent backflow from the handbrake? In my mind, when you engage that brake, what will stop it from pumping fluid forward as well as backwards?

I've never plumbed one of these, so I'm more curious than anything else.


The handbrake is plumbed inline with the rear brake circuit, so the handbrake master doesn't have it's own reservoir. Backflow isn't an issue.
2011-11-29 14:05:02
#127
Yeah.... I realized that as I was falling asleep last night and thought "doh, separate masters, duh!"

Strange how it struck me 12 hours later and as I was falling asleep!
2011-11-29 15:39:01
#128
Originally Posted by Vector


The hydraulic handbrake. This is a cheap eBay K-Sport/Glow Shift/Blackworks/whatever. I pitched the crappy master they come with and installed a Wilwood 3/4" compact master. You can also see how I added a bleeder valve after it. A lot of people don't do this and have a hell of a time getting the system bled fully.


This will be mounted alongside the shifter, like this:


I took some more photos of the whole car as it stands now, but either my camara or the eye-fi card corrupted them. Hmph.


I want to do this to my car!!

How much did it cost you?

The thing i want to do is put the handbrake at the same place and same way as the stock one, you think it's possible? I got a B13 too with nx2000 front/rear brake already.(we don't have se-r's here so i had to do a swap)

thanks man
2011-11-29 17:42:12
#129
Originally Posted by 200_sx
I want to do this to my car!!




Keep in mind you can't do this with a stock diagonal-split master cylinder.
2011-11-29 21:00:20
#130
Originally Posted by 200_sx
I want to do this to my car!!

How much did it cost you?

The thing i want to do is put the handbrake at the same place and same way as the stock one, you think it's possible? I got a B13 too with nx2000 front/rear brake already.(we don't have se-r's here so i had to do a swap)

thanks man


The handbrake was about $120 on eBay (search for Glow-shift or blackworks). The master they come with is generally considered to be complete crap and liable to stick and cause the rear brakes to stay on. A Wilwood master like I used is about $50. You have to have a tap (5/16"-16 IIRC) to rethread the linkage, but it's aluminum so it's super easy to do.

The handbrake can be set up to be either a pull up or a push, so you can orient it like the stock handbrake and mount it in the same area. If you had the center console in place it would have to be modified.

You also have to completely re-run your rear brake lines.

But... Bob is absolutely right about this:

Originally Posted by 1450Racing
Keep in mind you can't do this with a stock diagonal-split master cylinder.


There are hydraulic handbrakes that use dual inline master cylinders which will work with the stock split system (about $250, not counting replacing the crap masters with good ones, so $350 with).

Or you could Tee the two rear lines together, but you'd lose the redundancy of the stock split system.

In my case all of the brake lines are new and custom, and the front/rear are 100% separate systems, because I need that to provide the adjustable biasing.

This isn't really a casual mod.
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