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Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

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Posts: 31-40 of 242
2011-01-26 19:19:17
#31
I haven't moved too far, sick kids, not much free time. Anyhow, last night I ordered up the components to make adjustable parallel arms with heim joints. Looking forward to getting that stuff in and seeing how it all goes together.

I've also completed reinforcing one of the front strut towers by grafting on the top of a strut tower taken from my old rallycross car. As the tower tops are about 1/8"
thick, this means the strut top is now 1/4" in total thickness.

Of course, after doing that I went to test-fit the suspension and found that I need to enlarge the hole in the strut top to accommodate the camber plates. And now I get to cut through 1/4" tops to do it... Joy.

I've also done some stitch welding in the wheel well, but it's not complete yet. Need to clean a couple of the seams better. Wish I had a Snap-On Crud Thug, as those are supposed to be *the* tool for the job, but I'm not gonna shell out that kind of $$$ for something I'll use once or twice.

Still need to source the correct rack boots.
2011-01-26 19:37:12
#32
Originally Posted by Vector
I haven't moved too far, sick kids, not much free time. Anyhow, last night I ordered up the components to make adjustable parallel arms with heim joints. Looking forward to getting that stuff in and seeing how it all goes together.

I've also completed reinforcing one of the front strut towers by grafting on the top of a strut tower taken from my old rallycross car. As the tower tops are about 1/8"
thick, this means the strut top is now 1/4" in total thickness.

Of course, after doing that I went to test-fit the suspension and found that I need to enlarge the hole in the strut top to accommodate the camber plates. And now I get to cut through 1/4" tops to do it... Joy.

I've also done some stitch welding in the wheel well, but it's not complete yet. Need to clean a couple of the seams better. Wish I had a Snap-On Crud Thug, as those are supposed to be *the* tool for the job, but I'm not gonna shell out that kind of $$$ for something I'll use once or twice.

Still need to source the correct rack boots.


The "Crud Thug" is the tool to have I am assuming you have looked at my daily driver project thread and seen the stitching I have done. PM me if I feel you are a trustworthy person I would be more then happy to "rent" you my "Crud Thug" for a modest fee.
2011-01-26 20:52:52
#33
Originally Posted by Jimithin7000
The "Crud Thug" is the tool to have I am assuming you have looked at my daily driver project thread and seen the stitching I have done. PM me if I feel you are a trustworthy person I would be more then happy to "rent" you my "Crud Thug" for a modest fee.


I appreciate the offer, but I really hate borrowing tools. I'll keep it in mind if I find my collection of die grinders and angle grinders just won't do the trick.
2011-01-27 17:14:05
#34
The seats that will be going in the car (along with my son and daughter).

Sparco Evo series seats. Evo3 for me, and Evo2 for the navigator seat.
2011-01-31 16:02:41
#35
Was hoping to build some custom parallel links over the weekend, but my normally reliable metal supplier screwed up and delivered some 0.120 wall tubing instead of the 0.095 I ordered. Since this stuff is being used to adapt the 3/4" heim joints down to the 14mm bolts the arms are attached with, it's kinda critical that the ID be what I ordered.
2011-02-24 08:31:52
#36
Well, it's been slow, but got a little more progress (no pics right now though).

Got parts to build heim-joint/adjustable parallel arms and started fabricating the pushings and spacers they'll need.

Finished clearing out out all the seam sealer and other gunk in the interior. Need to hit it with adhesive remover to final clean it though.

Tore down the rear driver's side corner for rebuilding with aforementioned parallel arms, Hotbits strut and Maxima brake. Also can now make a template for cutting a strut top reinforcing plate (which will tie to the cage).

Took the plasma cutter to the front clip from the old rallycross car to get the driver's side and cut off as much metal as I'm sure I'm not going to need to graft onto the new car. I think I may have to take it back nearly to the strut tower to make things work nicely.

Put the seats in just so I could see it that way to help inspire more work. Realized that a Sparco Evo 3 is a really tight fit in a Sentra. It would be nice to have the bigger seat, but I can fit and Evo 2, so maybe I'll try to swap the 3 for a 2 (and the blue for a red to match the codriver seat).
2011-02-27 03:38:45
#37
Have you looked at the Evo 2 plus?
2011-02-27 06:02:07
#38
Originally Posted by wildmane
Have you looked at the Evo 2 plus?


Isn't the Evo 2 Plus just the Evo 3 renamed?

Spent a bunch of time cleaning the garage up tonight so I can do more work on the car. Also took a bunch of pics of stuff to post for sale, and a few of the car as it stands.
2011-02-27 22:57:55
#39
Originally Posted by Vector
Isn't the Evo 2 Plus just the Evo 3 renamed?



I have no idea... assumed it was different.
2011-02-27 23:23:20
#40
Originally Posted by wildmane
I have no idea... assumed it was different.


According to: http://www.sparcousa.com/resourceFiles/26.pdf

The Evo 2 Plus is actually smaller than the Evo 2.

I think the "Plus" part is because it's got relief areas for a HANS.

Sparco can be infuriating sometimes. The same seat will be called different things at different times in different markets (and then switch).

For Instance, the Evo 2 has also been sold as the Evo L (which is what I actually have), and the Evo 3 has been sold as the Evo XL. Different markets get different stiching for the same product, which makes it really hard to know if you're looking at a grey market seat or a counterfeit at times (the counterfiet probably won't have FIA stickers, though).

Whatever, they're good seats that I got for a good price, and I can make the 3 work.
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