Thread: My high CR build

i think if this thing makes 170s-180s it will do mid 13s on slicks....

im really interested in the dyno of this motor

I have the exedy stage 1 clutch, which is good up to 220 hp, so clutch should not be an issue. I will be buying myself some dyno time (for dialing in the cams as well as seeing my HP and TQ) soon. I am trying to decide whether I want to do it after I hit my 500 mile mark oil change, or whether I should wait till I hit 3500 miles and switch to a full synthetic oil when the engine is fully broken in. Any input from anyone on how soon after a rebuild I can dyno my car?

i have talked to several people during my 1.5 years in automotive school and they have said with the technology used in bearings and piston rings today a break in period doesnt really exist anymore. the first oil change after running for a few hours is key because of any machining debris left over, and then the 500 mile oil change....though anal, is also a very good idea. but after that i have been told many times the engine is ready to go.

Thats what I have heard too, but I would rather play it safe. But I guarantee that I will be out driving and just won't be able to help myself. I'll probably end up flooring it and driving like normal

i would just ease into the power than jam on the gas even tho it would be hard to help myself too lol, but just ease into the powerband

so i just called the machine shop today and the prices i was given made me wonder.......................why the hell everyone buys a used engine instead of rebuilding there own DE!?!?!?! i will be doing my own engine rebuild soon and with everything stock other than high comp pistons and intake spacers...........i likely wont break $800.

well it just depends on if the person or persons have the ability to rebuild their own engine, lack of knowledge i think is key why machine shops charge so much, they get paid to know what they are doing, and if people know what they ar doing, then you dont have to pay them and in return you save money lol..

Yup, the guys that do the machine work for MSp is going to do mine and it will be in the same price range as yours w/ minor head work. This is for my bro in law NX not mine.

My only thing is cams, I want to see what Rob pulls with the stage 3 before I can decide.

yea. i was reading around and found i will need at least some mild tuning for the engine to run well if i go 11:1 compression. on that note i will be useing the 10:1 pistons. granted i will drop cams and other goodies on the car in the future, however i really just want to rebuild the engine and be done with t for the moment so i can move onto body work. for me the extra compression isnt worth it for me.

from what i was told today the machine work isnt expencive AT ALL. he quoted me prices like

$5 per cyl to hone
$35 to mic and polish crank
$40 to hot tank block
$25 to hot tank head

however i have just realized i really dont need the machine shop to do much of anything. i can hone the cyl's myself, i can install the new pistons on the rods myself (remove snap rings...install piston)

all i need the machine shop for is hot tank, polish crank

^^ your not resurfacing the head or block?