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Thread: Cams. Stock vs Aftermarket

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Posts: 71-74 of 74
2014-02-18 07:39:07
#71
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
Originally Posted by Storm88000
Originally Posted by Chris101
Perhaps I didn't make myself clear enough. If you look at what I posted, I merely said a VE is much like an S2000 (or just about any VTEC honda actually) where you have to be high in the revs to be in the power band and the torque is not very high..


Not necessarily; I can set my activation point to 4800RPM and that's not high at all really compared to an S2000


Changing your VVL engagement point does nothing to affect where the engine makes its peak power. Adjustable cam gears is a different story...



Maybe not where it makes it's peak power but it effects how fast it gets there.

I ended up at Mustang dyno and the owner told me to set it at 2000RPM "because why not?" No I didn't do it. I've found 5100-5200RPM is the best spot for my setup
2014-02-18 21:41:05
#72
Originally Posted by Storm88000
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
Originally Posted by Storm88000
Originally Posted by Chris101
Perhaps I didn't make myself clear enough. If you look at what I posted, I merely said a VE is much like an S2000 (or just about any VTEC honda actually) where you have to be high in the revs to be in the power band and the torque is not very high..


Not necessarily; I can set my activation point to 4800RPM and that's not high at all really compared to an S2000


Changing your VVL engagement point does nothing to affect where the engine makes its peak power. Adjustable cam gears is a different story...



Maybe not where it makes it's peak power but it effects how fast it gets there.

I ended up at Mustang dyno and the owner told me to set it at 2000RPM "because why not?" No I didn't do it. I've found 5100-5200RPM is the best spot for my setup


Honestly, whether you switch your cams at 4800 vs. 5000 vs. 5200 will not make a huge difference in how fast your car accelerates. Especially when you are not tuning for those changes! You may or may not put your self in a more optimized part of the map for the switchover. That would depend on how good the tune was before hand. Moving the switch point without tuning and measuring for the change, is just blind tuning.

In regards to switching to the high cam at 2000 rpm or anywhere near there (naturally aspirated), that would have been very foolish for a street car with zero power adders. You will lose power down low. The large lobes are optimized for high rpm usage and the smaller lobes are optimized for low rpm usage. Switching N1 cams (N/A) in the 4000 rpm range seems like a bit of a waste, IMHO. The low lobes are usually still putting in work there! The overlap of the two profiles or just before the overlap will always be the best switch point.
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2014-02-18 at 21-42-17.
2014-02-18 23:34:23
#73
But my motor WAS tuned for the mods it has on it for 5100-5200RPM on the dyno. That's where it made the most power overall. Now I have since put on under drive pulleys, port and polished the head, and a CAI but haven't messed with the activation point since then. In due time perhaps.
2014-02-19 15:27:05
#74
Originally Posted by Storm88000
But my motor WAS tuned for the mods it has on it for 5100-5200RPM on the dyno. That's where it made the most power overall. Now I have since put on under drive pulleys, port and polished the head, and a CAI but haven't messed with the activation point since then. In due time perhaps.


None of the above mods will change the activation point.

5500-5600rpm is what your car was tuned at for an activation point when it was here in CT.
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