Thread: S3r cams gain on a sr20de lowport with these bolt ons ?????????

I wouldn't say it's totally incorrect. It just depends what other mods you have. If you have a 100% stock SR20 and a 3" exhaust on it, then yeah you'll prob lose power. But if you have an intake, cams, pullies, ECU upgrade etc at least a 2.5" exhaust may work. You know those cheap headers are cheap for a reason right? (besides the rusting and coating wearing off in a few weeks) I'd say go with a big header and a 2.5" exhaust, the JWR RR cams, some pullies, cold air intake, and a decent clutch, etc.

99+ EUDM RR was like USDM crap (intake mani, egr, two o2 sensors, obd2, etc.)

Well, JP proved, that 3" works even on stock SR20. Check full thread here.

Stock vs. 20° timing, HotShot 3" intake and 3" exhaust


As Vadim said, exhaust, header, intake... as you got everything i would get Nistune and tune it at dyno. That can break 170bhp.

Hey man,i have a fgk header,cai,2.5 catback,lighten flywheel,i have also get s3 cams at a bargain price,will be fitting next week,also my intake manifold is much bigger than that above,much better,my stock p11 gt is 150bhp from the factory.

I could do with some tips on installing cams,i am confident but never done cams before,do i need cam glue for the cam caps ?,nissan from factory using glue by the looks of it !

With NA engines it's all about the exhaust velocity, going too big might get you peak HP, but you will be hurting in the rest of the powerband. But you could also loose peak HP if you don't have enough gasses to keep the velocity up too. It's all about finding what works best for your specific setup really.

Also I'm not exactly sure on OBX header, but SSAC and SSAC ebay knock offs have been serving me very well. They are SS so no paint to chip. The only thing I hate about the SSAC design is the primary to secondary connection. It's a royal pain to get to those bolts and to avoid exhaust leaks.



Don't touch those, you can remove the cams without removing the cam caps. You will need a breaker bar with a 24mm socket and 1" wrench for the caps themselves.

Do you live in the south? My OBX header also came stainless steel (assuming that's what you meant by SS) and they look like shit now, lol. But I live in the northeast, where as you know, before each potential snow or ice storm they dump nasty corrosive shat all over the roads. I've had my OBX header since May 2012 and the shinyl chrome/SS is lonnnggg gone. Now it may also come down to how often the car is driven, and I drive it all the time. I think I even noticed a change in the coating on the primaries after the first test drive after I out them on.

P.S. I agree on the connections between the primaries to the secondary downpipe. Pain in the arse.

I'm sorry I'm kinda lost... or stupid.. or both.. Are you referring to the cam bearing caps, that have the arrows on them pointing towards the engine? Unless you misspoke, how can you remove the cams out without removing them first??

The breaker bar yes to loosen the sprocket bolt (I *think* the cam sprocket bolts are 24mm) and a large and long 1", possibly 1 1/4" wrench (my Tomei cams were just a bit bigger than 1" and it turned out after several trips to the hardware store I needed a 1 1/4" long wrench, not the easiest thing to find)

Ve head. great bang for the buck.

VE engine is probably cheaper than VE head swap... then again, this guy is in UK, youre not helping him at all.

I wanna stick with the de,i want a de that can compete with a ve !

Look at happynoles de build.