Originally Posted by
Storm88000
I would be more interested in wheel HP.. but to make 170 crank, that's only what, 25 more than stock rating at 145 for the RR motor? Probably just all the bolt ons. Big exhaust, a good header, not the cheap OBX one, at least a 3" collector etc.
Correct on just bolt ons getting that much power, but incorrect on your exhaust suggestion. NA is sensitive to exhaust flow, thus going too big will cost you power. Also cheap SSAC knock off is a good way to go, not sure if they are like OBX headers though.
Originally Posted by
LikeTheMovies From what I've seen JDM intake manifold is also different then the usdm craps.
JDM RR manifolds are better then USDM RR, but I believe UK did switch to USDM style manifolds at one point.
@p11primera what does your intake manifold look like. If it's like the USDM one you can get a lot of power by switching it out.
Here is what the USDM manifold is like
Originally Posted by
p11primera So whats needed to make around 170bhp ?
I wouldn't spend the money on S3r's yet, I feel like you can reach your goal fairly easily cheaper route.
First
sidegap and index your spark plugs. Then get an intake, something with a flow stack right before the MAF. Then a header with a 2.5" collector. Check out my
RR Virtual Dyno testing thread for some more details/numbers.
I would do a tunable ECU afterwards, as you can see from my testing a Tunable ECU makes a huge difference in power. Only after that would I look into S3R's. I would also save the exhaust for the very last. Reason I say that is, the horsepower gains are fairly minimal, but the noise increase is horrible. When you do decide on an exhaust, for NA I would do 2.5" with an STi Muffler or another well flowing OEM muffler.