Thread: Low dyno numbers on full bolt on 97 SE-R. 138hp. Input appreciated

JWT always says keep timing at 15* with their ECUs. Too advanced will loose HP just like too little timing will. Also as others have said, a compression test will tell you a lot. If this motor was covered in sludge than we can all expect it not to perform as expected.

Many, many people can chime in on this. This may not be the case with this exact ecu but it might explain the low numbers. There are many topics on this! search!

Most JWT ecus that have the "s3/s4" cam program say to set base timing to 25. some cases i herd 20deg. This is how they make it idle better and easier to check your base idle with a timing light.

AGAIN, So you did not try any different timing at the distributor

Something is fishy.I make 141hp/132 tq,with stock cams.Don't discount the sludge factor,that shit is evil.With 180,000+ miles AND sludgy,it's like you've got double the miles.I'm guessing it's just plain tired

Take it to the track and your trap speed should tell you if it is low on power.

I agree with 15 degree timing, least that's what my s4s liked most.

On the other hand, if u ever wanna sell that Ecu lemme know!

I tried futzing around with JWT programs and misc. cam combinations. It is not a good idea. The S3/S4 program should be set to go under a 15 degree base idle ignition. The ones that use 25* are the Competition (C1, C2, C3) series and I think S5 program raises it also.

Although I did make 138whp with stock ECU, S-AFC taking out fuel up top during WOT, stock cams, with intake and exhaust. That was "tuned" or whatever you want to call me using an S-AFC II cheater magic box to take fuel out up top during WOT.

Anyway, since your car was on this dyno for the first time, you are once again, worrying about your numbers and them being too low. The dyno is a comparision tool to use for your own car, not to compare to my car on a dyno 45 minutes South of you, or Jamie's dyno up in CT, or a dyno in Cali. They are all different and will all read differently.

More importantly, just maintain the thing and make sure it is running in tip-top shape. Since you had the spark wire come loose in 24 hours after the dyno run, that tells me the car was not ready for a dyno run. (just like your other car) Please do not see this as me picking on you. Just want to help and offer insight on a perspective I can gather from the words you type on the forum.

Kyle

I think the spark plug wires were just old.

I'll put the timing down to 15.

I made better results by increasing the timing via distributor and proved it on a dyno session. Everyone knows JWT makes the safest limits that are better than stock, but certainly far from optimal on a car by car basis.

I was still making power 5* advanced over JWT program. When I went higher, the power was steady and when I went even higher, the car began losing power.

This is a good idea, he needs to do this on the dyno for his setup as we all know every setup is different.

Storm, you might want to look into a dash dyno or something that will let you measure differences with any changes you make. I dont think it is worth any more time or money on a dyno until you make sure the care is in optimal running condition, the compression test checks out ok, and you can confirm if adjusting the timing makes a difference. With the JWT ECU there is no tuning you can do without the use of a SAFC or similar. If you set the timing back to 15* you should be able to feel the difference IF that is what is causing the "low" reading.

Kyle is right, this is an unknown motor on the dyno for the first time, you now have a base number and any changes you make from here on out will be noticed by the dyno, for a true measurable difference.

You would be better off with a tunable ECU to get the most out of your setup.

It should be various problems.

- cam timing, tune, 2" dp, damaged muffler, ignition timing,...