Thread: still having problems

Yeah but its the angle of the bolt, youll see what I mean when you get to actually pulling it off. The iacv is a really easy pull and clean, sone have problems but they must have monster hands, lol. The maf can be checked by the volts, I believe you want .5v warmed up, not sure of the range tolerance but it can be checked if its functioning well with a multimeter, if not try thr reground and do your other grounds on the intake mani while your at it. I cant wait for the knock sensor to get to you so we can move on to getting your timing stable.

well no parts came in today. i did fully clean my maf and i completely took my iacv apart and cleaned every part. its runnin a tiny bit better but no major improvements. ive been checkin the junk yard every day to see if any sr20's came in so i can grab a dizzy off of it but no luck yet. once again i wanna thank everyone on here for there help.
especially josh ( lynchfourtwenty) been a really big help.

Btw did you ever reground the maf yet? Clean the grounds at the intake mani with sandpaper and add a wire with a eyelet to share with the other grounds and put a connector at the other end to get ready to try the reground after the sensor if needef if you already havent.

Guys, Mike's motor was rebuilt by a "knowledgeable" friend and has ran poorly ever since. I question the engine building of a guy (Mike's friend) who puts stock VE pistons in a DE engine for a "compression bump". My guess is he was thinking SR16 pistons, not stockers.

I think there is a good chance it is out of time, based on what I saw today. Distributor is 100% advanced and not a single ping. We went for a drive and it also doesn't pull worth a crap once warm. Nothing at all above about 5500. I'm saying the chain may be off by a tooth upon assembly. Unfortunately unable to check this without pulling the engine.

Joe, you can absolutely check cam timing without pulling the engine. It doesn't matter if the marks dont line up with the shiny links all that matters is the crank is at 0 and the cams are at 10 an 12 with a proper amount of links / pins between the marks as shown in this pic,




the only time you bother using the marks is if your doing a new chain or already have it apart..

as and as for getting it tdc, as long as the pulley hasn't slipped the 2nd mark from the left is 0, other wise you might have to use a screw driver or something to stick in the spark plug hole to find it.

I wish I wasn't a loan ranger out here in BFE ! Y'all are awesome !! Thanks for all the help guys hopefully I can get her to run 100% by the time the convention gets here so I can show everyone how its done lol

I'm goin to pull the valveless cover ONE MORE TIME and check it all over again ill take tons of pics if it don't work after that its gettin 100 shot direct port nitrous hopefully get MILLION HITS ON YOUTUBE

Mike confirmed today there are 19 rollers between marks. Any correct solutions out there? Far as I know (and I don't know even half of it) there is no way to make this right without pulling the engine and then front cover and resetting the timing chain. Or is there?

like i said bud, theres no need to worry about colored links on the chain, as long as the crank is at TDC, all you have to do is take the cam gears off, the put the cams in the correct positions then put the chain back on. it might be easier to take the chain tensioner out, it will allow for more slack in the chain so it can be put in the right spot.

I did that today and it's still not running.