Thread: 4cw crank

What is everyone's thoughts on a 4cw crank with stock de rods and aftermarket pistons 12.5:1 compression? Also what year make model did the 4cw crank come in? I have a local junk yard that I work with that will let me take just about anything I need....

RR cranks ar 4 CW.

however people tend to want the 8cw over the 4's.

i did see your other thread about lightening the bottom end. but im not sure if they weight the same, and the 8cw just has less weight distributed across the 8 vs the 4....
but i dont know

If you want to lighten the bottom end a 4cw crank is fine, I would highly recommend ditching the stock rods and just get some manley h-beams. Well worth the 300 dollar investment. Why go high comp with stock rods. You can and should be fine but if you want the full advantage, aftermarket rods are the way to go.

the 4cw is a good bit lighter than the 8cw and sr20's with the 4cw are still going strong in eudm n15 gti's at 120,000miles +

.....phone.....

Figured that a factory shoot penned rod was more than strong enough I only plan on 8000 rpm at the end of the straightaway

Also I was thinking that seeing as I lack tq if I was to lighten the bottom end up it will reach the higher revs faster out of the turn getting the motor in peak power mode faster

The factory rods are fine and will work just fine. I only suggested for the additional light weight. You dont have to worry about using the factory rods on your build if thats what your asking.

How about balancing the whole lot? Theoretically if the crank is lighter I will have to lighten up the pistons and rods to match the counter weight on the crank? Anyone done it or do they just slap it together? I am planning on matching rod weight to half a gram as well as the pistons

You can have the whole rotating assy balanced. Most (some) machine shops do it.

Personally when I build my motor my plan is 8cwc.