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Thread: B14 - what else to do while doing a clutch replacement

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Posts: 1-10 of 25
2011-07-20 02:15:38
#1
B14 - what else to do while doing a clutch replacement
Slowly coming up to do the clutch in my 200sx B14, 1996, 94,000 miles. Daily driver etc.

Wanting to put in an Exedy Sports Tuff HD clutch kit in. or go OEM? thoughts....
What else should i do while the new clutch goes in?

This is what i've come up with :

1) resurface flywheel
2) clutch cable
3) slave and master cylinders / rebuilt or replaced
4) flywheel bolts
5) shifter bushes
6) tranny mounts
7 throw out bearing
8) pilot bearing
9) rear main seal
10) axle seals

What gearbox oil do you guys recommend or use?

Anything I've missed? thoughts on any of the items above?


Thanks
Last edited by icecold0 on 2011-07-20 at 03-31-30.
2011-07-20 03:22:10
#2
The B15 SR20 disk is a good upgrade with your OEM pressure plate. It's double sprung unlike our B13/14 disks, so it's stronger. I got mine from GregV @ Gspec Performance for about $90.00 IIRC. That's if it's just a DD with no real need of a heavy clutch?

As for your list though...
1) Flywheel needs only be resurfaced if it's all gouged up. (like if someone drove it and rode the clutch pedal to burn it, or if the clutch is so wore down that the rivets got into it.)
2) Clutch cable won't need to be replaced unless it's starting to fray, or it's really stretched out.
3) I'm pretty sure you don't have this if you have a B14. You can only have one, or the other. Hydraulic or cable clutch?
4) No need to replace these unless you want to spend the extra $, but opinions differ. I have junkyard bolts in mine.
5) Shifter bushings. You could do the Energy Suspension on the stabilizer, and a solid rear shifter mount. I made my mount with a piece of 2"x2" steel angle stock 1/8th" thick. Once you remove your old rear rubber mount just mark the holes, drill, and cut to length. You can also lower the center hole a bit to lower the shifter. You will also ditch the old weighted bolt, and replace with a short bolt with a nylock nut.
6) It would be a good time to upgrade to some ES inserts, or Prothane. If the old mounts look good though you can just pass this, and save some $.
7, 9, 10) Yes, do all of these. Skip (8) just make sure to use grease on the TOB, Pilot bearing, TOB clips, Clutch release fork, and imput shaft. FSM calls for moly-lithioum grease. Use enough, but don't over grease it. Rear main, and axle seals are cheap insurance. They are easy to change as well.
11, 12) These I'll add. Imput shaft seal, and striking for oil seal.

Alot of guys swear by Redline gear oil, but I just use Mobile 1 synthetic 75-90
2011-07-20 03:26:19
#3
Originally Posted by tswii
The B15 SR20 disk is a good upgrade with your OEM pressure plate. It's double sprung unlike our B13/14 disks, so it's stronger. I got mine from GregV @ Gspec Performance for about $90.00 IIRC. That's if it's just a DD with no real need of a heavy clutch?

As for your list though...
1) Flywheel needs only be resurfaced if it's all gouged up. (like if someone drove it and rode the clutch pedal to burn it, or if the clutch is so wore down that the rivets got into it.)
2) Clutch cable won't need to be replaced unless it's starting to fray, or it's really stretched out.
3) I'm pretty sure you don't have this if you have a B14. You can only have one, or the other. Hydraulic or cable clutch?
4) No need to replace these unless you want to spend the extra $, but opinions differ. I have junkyard bolts in mine.
5) Shifter bushings. You could do the Energy Suspension on the stabilizer, and a solid rear shifter mount. I made my mount with a piece of 2"x2" steel angle stock 1/8th" thick. Once you remove your old rear rubber mount just mark the holes, drill, and cut to length. You can also lower the center hole a bit to lower the shifter. You will also ditch the old weighted bolt, and replace with a short bolt with a nylock nut.
6) It would be a good time to upgrade to some ES inserts, or Prothane. If the old mounts look good though you can just pass this, and save some $.
7, 9, 10) Yes, do all of these. Skip (8) just make sure to use grease on the TOB, Pilot bearing, TOB clips, Clutch release fork, and imput shaft. FSM calls for moly-lithioum grease. Use enough, but don't over grease it. Rear main, and axle seals are cheap insurance. They are easy to change as well.
11, 12) These I'll add. Imput shaft seal, and striking for oil seal.

Alot of guys swear by Redline gear oil, but I just use Mobile 1 synthetic 75-90
[/B]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that GL-5????
2011-07-20 03:43:27
#4
IDK y?
2011-07-20 04:05:53
#5
I did a google search. Check out post #2Use of GL-5 transmission fluid in GL-4 spec transmissions

I'm also using DOT4 Syn brake fluid. It's compatible with DOT3 even mixed
2011-07-20 04:21:51
#6
Originally Posted by tswii
The B15 SR20 disk is a good upgrade with your OEM pressure plate. It's double sprung unlike our B13/14 disks, so it's stronger. I got mine from GregV @ Gspec Performance for about $90.00 IIRC. That's if it's just a DD with no real need of a heavy clutch?

As for your list though...
1) Flywheel needs only be resurfaced if it's all gouged up. (like if someone drove it and rode the clutch pedal to burn it, or if the clutch is so wore down that the rivets got into it.)
2) Clutch cable won't need to be replaced unless it's starting to fray, or it's really stretched out.
3) I'm pretty sure you don't have this if you have a B14. You can only have one, or the other. Hydraulic or cable clutch?
4) No need to replace these unless you want to spend the extra $, but opinions differ. I have junkyard bolts in mine.
5) Shifter bushings. You could do the Energy Suspension on the stabilizer, and a solid rear shifter mount. I made my mount with a piece of 2"x2" steel angle stock 1/8th" thick. Once you remove your old rear rubber mount just mark the holes, drill, and cut to length. You can also lower the center hole a bit to lower the shifter. You will also ditch the old weighted bolt, and replace with a short bolt with a nylock nut.
6) It would be a good time to upgrade to some ES inserts, or Prothane. If the old mounts look good though you can just pass this, and save some $.
7, 9, 10) Yes, do all of these. Skip (8) just make sure to use grease on the TOB, Pilot bearing, TOB clips, Clutch release fork, and imput shaft. FSM calls for moly-lithioum grease. Use enough, but don't over grease it. Rear main, and axle seals are cheap insurance. They are easy to change as well.
11, 12) These I'll add. Imput shaft seal, and striking for oil seal.

Alot of guys swear by Redline gear oil, but I just use Mobile 1 synthetic 75-90


Cheers for the response!

I did look into the b15 disks, i dont think gspec ships to where i am though... i do have a helpful local nissan dealer who i normally get parts through, is it just a stock b15 sr20 disk? no other modifications to fit it?

I think i'll go for a resurface as a precaution.
Clutch cable is stretched at its max atm so might do that aswel.
You're right b14 is cable, was thinking primera setup.
For the mounts mentioned looks like i'll go prothane and ES.

replace the following aswel - TOB clips, Clutch release fork, input/output shaft bearings?

striking oil seal being the striking rod oil seal?

Want to get as much work done to it internally to save doing it down the path etc.
Last edited by icecold0 on 2011-07-20 at 04-27-38.
2011-07-20 04:41:09
#7
Yeah, the B15 disk fits fine. It's identical to the B13/14 disk aside from being dual sprung.

You will see visible damage if its that bad to need resurfacing. I see many SR flywheels in the junkyard with 200k that are fine. You could check the runout if you're that worried.

TOB clips, yes. I forgot those. Fork and bearings, no. Your tranny is still pretty fresh, and shouldn't need that much service. Mine came from a NX with 280k on it and those parts were fine.

This is the OEM striking rod oil seal here
SEAL-OIL,STRIKING ROD - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1999 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
2011-07-20 05:03:00
#8
awesome! thats helped out big time. will start tracking down parts etc now
2011-07-20 12:42:31
#9
if your car is has a cable clutch you wont have to worry about this;

3) slave and master cylinders / rebuilt or replaced
2011-07-20 22:51:05
#10
Change cross member bushings.
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