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Thread: Autech GTi -SR20DE UPDATES

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Posts: 31-40 of 130
2010-12-18 15:32:11
#31
I think it will benefit from some fine tuning with the cam gears, the torque is dropping off too quickly after 6k.

We ran out of time during the mapping session for any changes.

Having said that, i am very pleased with these results, as i know from past experience that this dyno reads a little low.
2010-12-19 02:36:07
#32
u should ditch those hex bolts and change over to a stainless flanged bolt for the cam gears. It will hold better + make it easier to adjust when on the dyno since u just need use a box wrench to losen and tighten them up.
2010-12-19 03:19:10
#33
Those are nice.

Stratton.
2010-12-19 11:09:06
#34
Originally Posted by BlueRB240
u should ditch those hex bolts and change over to a stainless flanged bolt for the cam gears. It will hold better + make it easier to adjust when on the dyno since u just need use a box wrench to losen and tighten them up.


Thats a good simple idea, like you say its not very practical with an allen key hex as im needing to turn the motor over to get access to all the bolts.
I can see access being much better your way being able to use a wrench/spanner...and also the added bonus of security.

Will swap them before it goes on the dyno again, cheers for the tip.
2010-12-19 12:11:46
#35
Don't thank me I got the info from Mazworxs.
2011-01-23 06:49:06
#36
So the Mazworx header came out good for you ? I´m about to install mine on a 2000+ Dr20DE RR motor soon. I´am wondering about port measurements btw....

Any suggestions welcome !
2011-01-23 10:14:25
#37
Only issue he has atm is as the header has been built for a VE the ports wont be lining up properly on his DE, so the bolt holes need notching so they can line up.
2011-01-23 16:34:45
#38
Not quite, the maworx header flange is slotted on the stud holes to suit both DE and VE.

I just made the mistake of not checking and installed it to suit a VE instead. Thats sorted now, undone the bolts and moved the header downward.

I know there's been a lot of discussion about the Mazworx header lately, i dont know what to think to be honest as I havent been able to compare it to another header.

My DE's BHP/Torque results (low reading dyno) are pretty much where i'd expect them to be given the engine spec and my incorrectly fitted header (partially obstructed ports, as above), the car is going on a Dynojet in March which i'm expecting to see around 175-180whp.

I think the main reason the header is never going to be good on modified VE's is the long length of the primaries, deeming it unsuitable for VE motors making power well past 7500rpm.

As a header for a modded DE or basic VE i'd like to think its better than an SSAC.
2011-01-23 20:40:59
#39
good to know

still need a ride out in it
2011-01-31 03:37:47
#40
Originally Posted by SR20-AUTECH
Not quite, the maworx header flange is slotted on the stud holes to suit both DE and VE.

I just made the mistake of not checking and installed it to suit a VE instead. Thats sorted now, undone the bolts and moved the header downward.

I know there's been a lot of discussion about the Mazworx header lately, i dont know what to think to be honest as I havent been able to compare it to another header.

My DE's BHP/Torque results (low reading dyno) are pretty much where i'd expect them to be given the engine spec and my incorrectly fitted header (partially obstructed ports, as above), the car is going on a Dynojet in March which i'm expecting to see around 175-180whp.

I think the main reason the header is never going to be good on modified VE's is the long length of the primaries, deeming it unsuitable for VE motors making power well past 7500rpm.

As a header for a modded DE or basic VE i'd like to think its better than an SSAC.


OK, so this means that the header should be installed as low as possible in the slots, right ? Mine is going in soon, therefore I´m looking for some good installation advice.

Thanks in advance !
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