Thread: GTI-r 54c head onto 53J block

GTI-r 54c head onto 53J block.

Swapping the head and internals form a dry sumped GTI-r NA race motor into a FWD 53j block, we have had the block bored and sufaced, what i need to know is what i need to do about the head bolts and dowels? do i fit larger hardened steel washers under the smaller head studs or redrill and tap the block to take the larger GTI-r head studs and dowels?

Thoughts?

If you gonna do it do it right. Drill the block for the larger head studs.

Cool thats what we shall do then.

Sneak peek!!

Re-drill and tap for the larger 12mm GTi-R bolts and larger dowel. Stay away from ARP studs, just buy new GTi-R OEM head bolts.

good progress.

What are you plans/power goal on this build? what will be the compressio ratio? is it for race purposes only? more info please!

Im just asking becuse a similar project had been on my mind for the last year or so, but honestly I've never seen any build like this on a dd.

~Jose

yea man, me and my bud tried that earlier this year, but we got as far as calling arp to make custom studs. When they started talking about measuring shank length, thread pitch, etc, we said x that and went through with the whole gtir long block for the b12. Good luck on the build.

This motor was supposedly making 260hp on an engine dyno in its GTI-R block form, we have resurfaced everything so it will be a little higher comp, not certain yet as i have had the combustion chambers rewelded so will have to cc them before the final skim. im thinking it will be about 12.7:1
We had to replace the cams too with new Kelford ones as the old cams were early rewelded and reground 53j cams and the lobes had started to crack along the start of the ramps. the new ones are from fresh billets.

Its a race motor for sealed circuit

Right can someone help me here, im trying to dial in the camshafts but its just not working for me.


I have set the cam timing using a new chain with bright links

Specs are @1mm valve lift
Duration inlet 236 degree Exhaust 263 degree

Inlet open 16 degree BTDC Close 40 degree ABDC

Exhaust open 59.5 degree BBDC Close 23.5 degree BTDC

Suggested centerline Intake 102 degree ATDC and Exhaust 108 degree BTDC.

So when i start with the inlet at 16 degrees with 1mm of lift measured at the top of the spring retainer (this should be ok?) i need to wind the cam almost all the way retarded on the adjustable gear to achieve this, but on the close 1mm equated to 59 degree ABDC, way more than it should be.

Exhaust is the same story, setting it to 1mm lift at 59.5 BBDC requires the cam to be retarded, but not as much as the inlet. but on the close it comes in at 17 ATDC @1mm

If i try and use these measurements i end up with centerlines of 127.5 (111.5 ATDC) and 127 degrees (110.0 BTDC), once again now where near the suggested 102 and 108

What's going on? do the specs not match the cams? or am i missing something?

I was expecting to have the cams retarded to allow for the amount of extra slack in the chain because of the block and deck machining. But im pretty much out of adjustment to achieve what the cam manufacturer wants them set too.

looks like its gonna be a great setup