Thread: C3 cams on a 10:1 motor

Yo blo0d will definitely need the help with the intake and exhaust. looking to use a ported Gtir mani, a ported high port mani with a bored or bigger TB or custom mani. I want to run high CR (11:1 to 11.5:1) big bore (90 -92 mm), forged aluminum, lightweight pistons for more displacement and lighter internals. dont want to increase the stroke though cuz I want to keep the motor high revving. Think I will be trying C3 cams as I like what I see from the dyno charts Superblacks posted; and a Nistune tune. Blo0d, all your support will be greatly appreciated with this build still.

Question. does the Gtir head flow much better than a highport? apart from the intake mani, sodium filled valves and bigger valves, wat would be the pros

Superblacks. Thanks alot for the info and the references. great info.

Thanks alot for your input and contribution Vumnoo, Blo0d and Superblackz. good info.

What do you guys think about this manifold

SR20DET SR20 Intake Manifold Pulsar GTI-R AWD RNN 14:eBay Motors (item 350284226637 end time Dec-25-09 00:02:58 PST)

any good

Blo0d, what were your ideas for the intake mani?

nissan sr20 intake manifold for sunny , pulsar gti-r :eBay Motors (item 280439991393 end time Dec-24-09 07:17:51 PST)

Much cheaper.

yeah, saw that one too but the finish didnt look so great, the runners are shorter, the porting didnt look too clean as well as the velocity stacks. Plus the one I losted cam with the 80mm TB. are these any good Dan and are they worth the money?

dahdi, i really think u should stop the "lets buy all the stuff off the net" and start learning how to fabricate some stuff... remember us dollaz expensive so spend them wisely... i was more thinking along the line of stock flange mated to custom runners (length matched to cam degrees) and a nice plenum (fair purchase off the net)... shouldnt run u 720 us. pick up a bigger throttle at a used parts place. cmon think out the box... afterall ur walking down a road not many sane/insane people would.

also 90mm 11.5:1 bore might not be streetable with our 90 pon octane out here. be realistic romes, dont go more than 11:1, remember the fact that youll be poor after u do this build u might wanna throw in reliability as a priority. go 87mm, thas as far as an unsleeved block will take u.

btw i think you should use the 4cw crank from the RR De/Ve, nice set of reliable aftermarket or gtir bearings, along with the GTI-R head...

yo, I did seh 11:1 but Prince nuh seh me can run 11.5 and tune for it. So I decided to try it by tunning each cylinder with a knock detector on each, giving each sylinder the extra fuel it needs by manipulating the duty cycle. If it too dangerous then we can pull some timing and send back on some timing when we at the track or on race gas. dont wana have too pull too much timing where the high CR becomes redundant though. Also remember is forged custom pistons so they might have a lil more tolerance.

blo0d, I heard the 8cw was better for high reving? true?
plan on using some ACL bearings, main and rod. that cool
why GTIR head?
the block will be sleeved for the 90mm pistons.
Is not a buy everything I see vibe still even though I luv brand new shiny tings. is just trying to do it properly.

the intake mani you described, is this local work. I never knew you had access to them machine shop there. where we talking bout? I am all for that.

i hear u tuning theory, but i dont know what management u plan to run so i dont know if thats even possible (with a calum/nistune it def. isnt). dont listen to prince on that 1, your build has to be more careful than his stock ve. dont go higher than 11:1.

the gtir head has proven to flow more than the low/high port de stock and still proven better when ported and polished, and due to design is more detonation resistant. and i remember reading they can support crzy large cams. with that said... get some regrinds and some 300* whole heap a lift cams.

the 4cw crank is what miko used in his 200whp de build, and hence my reasoning, simple.

anything you want that requires welding and pipes can be made anywhere in this world... shaping metal isnt as difficult as you may think it is. as i said, i can help you get both an intake and an exhaust galifold made, as long as you pay for the raw materials.

ps. sleeving a block that you could damage jus sounds like a waste of money bredda. keep it as close to stock as possible so if anything unfortunate was to happen (lol like when you tuning each cylinder) you can afford to rebuild your prized engine

I do believe it was smoothed. With regards to the torque figures, great point, I didn't ask the dyno operator, however I would imagine that it's specific to this particular dyno, and without being a dyno expert, my understanding is that torque numbers from a dyno are vastly inaccurate and not really to be trusted (it would seem especially so in my case) and what is more important is the curve showing where torque delivery takes place. Perhaps this is a known issue/difference with Mainline dynos or a configuration error with regards to a correction factor when overlaying two curves on the one graph?
Block is stock 9.5:1 Australian Delivered SR20de.

reedom dont listen to blood.... u CAN run a 11.5:1 motor out here..... after all thats the c.r. of the k20a and the 2zz motors and thats stock...ive seen ppl running 12.5 on pump gas also just by timing adjustment and more fueling plus a good polishing of the head.....