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Thread: Using water injection with N/a engine.

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Posts: 11-20 of 28
2009-06-21 16:14:53
#11
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2009-06-21 18:51:35
#12
Originally Posted by Andreas
Here is one major reason it does not work.

If the outside temp is 90 degrees, the water injection temp will be about 90 degrees. So there is no benefit from cooling. ( you actually will lose HP )


You will not lose HP. If you have absolute proof, please share your results with me. However based on my experience, HP will not be lost.


See on a turbo car when you have inlet temps go up the intercooler cools of the air that is beeing compreesed,( as we know the more you compress air the hotter it gets ) but the intercooler can only do so much and spraying water into the mix can help even more.


While this is true, its not the only thing water injection does. As I will explain later.


The problem with an NA car is when you spray water in you are taking up a large amount of space for water that could be taken up with air to make more HP. So even if you did spray cooler water in, the change in air temp would be offset by the percentage of water to air ratio going down less air less HP.


Actually, while water itself is inert, when throw in with a hydrocarbon combustion reaction, it actually helps play an important part in the process. I higher power, forced induction up to half of the air can be replaced with water.

I don't mean to sound like an ass or anything but I don't really want to get into the actual chemistry and physics behind the whole process because I don't think my explanation will be of much use to you guys.

Think of the following scenario: you have an ecu that retards timing based on knock count, if you introduce water or water/meth into the equation you can reduce knock not because it lowers the charge temp, but it actually reduces the temp in the compressed air/fuel mix pre-determined by your compression ratio. Less knock = more timing = more power.
2009-06-21 21:02:03
#13
well you can run more timing but what if you are already at the point where adding timing doesnt produce any more power? i think na guys will be at this point way before turbo thus making water injection not very efficent for non turbo setups.
2009-06-21 21:19:50
#14
if your running 14:1 comp ratio you can run a 50/50 water/meth in place of race gas. If your car can run on pump gas 93 oct there are no gains to be had and you can actually lose power.
2009-06-21 23:04:06
#15
Originally Posted by cortrim1
if your running 14:1 comp ratio you can run a 50/50 water/meth in place of race gas. If your car can run on pump gas 93 oct there are no gains to be had and you can actually lose power.


well you might be able to run the car on pump but you would have to run essentially zero advance to keep it from pinging
2009-06-22 00:11:34
#16
Originally Posted by cortrim1
if your running 14:1 comp ratio you can run a 50/50 water/meth in place of race gas. If your car can run on pump gas 93 oct there are no gains to be had and you can actually lose power.


In my experience you are wrong. Just because your car runs 93 doesn't mean there is more timing in the motor to be had. Some cars reach knock before MBT this is really where the advantage comes into play.
2009-06-22 00:13:14
#17
Originally Posted by Mr.sentra_specv
well you can run more timing but what if you are already at the point where adding timing doesnt produce any more power? i think na guys will be at this point way before turbo thus making water injection not very efficent for non turbo setups.


Yeah most stock guys will hit MBT before knock threshold, high compression motors, or motors that just tend to knock early such as some domestic cars can benefit from water/meth.

I don't have any more N/A sr20's laying around, and I haven't added water injection to any N/A sr20's either. Perhaps I can convince some clients to try it out and let you guys know.
2009-06-22 01:43:34
#18
Originally Posted by danmartin
In my experience you are wrong. Just because your car runs 93 doesn't mean there is more timing in the motor to be had. Some cars reach knock before MBT this is really where the advantage comes into play.


This is also dependant on the motor and setup. You can only add so much timing with out a full stand alone. From my experience 3-4hp gain is not worth the trouble or time especially on a mostly stock motor imho.
2009-06-22 01:52:31
#19
Originally Posted by danmartin
Yeah most stock guys will hit MBT before knock threshold, high compression motors, or motors that just tend to knock early such as some domestic cars can benefit from water/meth.

I don't have any more N/A sr20's laying around, and I haven't added water injection to any N/A sr20's either. Perhaps I can convince some clients to try it out and let you guys know.


on a ve this would be pointless, atleast if its put together right they require such little timing to make power that unless your running like 15:0.1 cr it would be stupid. i konw of ves making the most power with as little as 22degrees of timing up top
2009-06-22 02:39:31
#20
Originally Posted by cory
on a ve this would be pointless, atleast if its put together right they require such little timing to make power that unless your running like 15:0.1 cr it would be stupid. i konw of ves making the most power with as little as 22degrees of timing up top


You know? Do you know what happens when you add more timing?
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