Thread: Who's using Jwt C3's in their daily driver?

trust me when I say this..... dont waste your money. I have been around her for a long time, and I have asked just about every possible question there is to ask about extracting every last bit of hp out of an SR, determining what is doable for the street, and more importantly what is more liveable on the street.

If you really want to kick some ass on a DE, im not going into VE territory, then think about this.

What about getting a set of BC stage 2 ( dont need valve springs), or stage 3's. Actually after typing that, get valvesprings. Valve float makes baby jesus cry... and does no good for humanity or your engine.

Anyways.. Either of the cheap cams coupled with a wet 75 shot tuned right will put you right into Corvette territory, and will be a helluva fun car.

Now if you want the best of the best...then there is nothing better than the JWT S4... These cams rock. not only do they rock, they sound like mechanical sex.... NO other cam sounds as mean on an SR as the S4. If you want to turn heads, run S4s with a side exit.

But like everyone else has been hinting... The DE is a dinosaur.
I seriously suggest, even after saying I wouldnt go into it ( i lied), that you really just take your time and source out a VE, do a complete rebuild on it once and right, paying attention to the head and rotating assembly. With enough lightening, Balancing and blueprinting, a little bit of porting, you could have 210+ hp VE no prob.... and dont even get me started on giving a VE some laughing gas...

thats my advice.

you got me all excited about the S4s I just bought.

I have JWT C2s in my car and they are very easy to live with. The trick is to have adjustable cam sprockets to set it how you wish. Right now I have mine set for -4 int/ + 4 exh which means I can idle with stock ecu just fine at 750rpm. Now there is a torque loss from 1000-3500rpm but its live able. However if I set my cams to +4int/-4exh it lopes like a race car and bucks/hesitates at part throttle from 1500-3000rpm. I traded my midrange torque for a better idle/daily driving. If there was a way to fit the RWD DE's VTC to the FWD DE that would kick so much ass. You could get the C3's and set the intake cam to retard for better idle and part throttle, then have the VTC advance it back to keep midrange torque at WOT!

Ok Ok are you close to 14's with the c2 cams?

Jimmy... your post just made me hot for some S4's....

LOL...

i wouldn't go for c series on street car... s4 would be the most...

I have c2s which I drive daily too. I find them completely fine. I don't have cam gears installed as of yet, so i'm running 0 and 0.. hehe. But I don't have a problem, they are still manageable and I find myself wishing I had have gone the c3s. Don't soften out, don't let people tell you to go softer... Specially if you want a balls out N/A and especially if they haven't driven a car with c series or similar cams...

What is the point of running big cams if you are not dialing in for max power?

As soon as you add more overlap by adv intake and ret exhaust there will be no comfortable daily driving...

these big cams are made just like JWT has always said what they were made for.... where the engine is going to be above 5 grand most of its life.... If i were ever going to mess with building a non VE ( 54C head out of the equation) head, i would only try and track down the C6M's along with converting the valvetrain to solid lifters, ITB's and wind it out to 9500.... this would be completely undriveable on the street.

You will spend more money for less power. Save money and go VE or do bolton DE. S4 cams, Calum ECU, SSAC header, 2.5" exhaust, 3" intake, flywheel.

Light weight pulleys are must on N/A builds I think. Quick rotation out of the hole is what you want.