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Thread: Ultimate sr20 block

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Posts: 1-10 of 31
2009-04-16 17:34:51
#1
Ultimate sr20 block
Well I decided to do a build this winter on the spare block I have sitting in the shed.

It's a RR 4CW crank block which ran a bearing on no 2 main.

Now I want to build this block for a DE/VE hybrid and I'm looking for some recommendations as to what would make the best possible all motor bottom end. I'm also planning to maybe run 100 shot.

This is my first bottom end build so all advice will be apreciated.

What I have planned so far is:

90mm CP 12:1 pistons
Custom (local) sleeves
Eagle rods?
ARP rod bolts
Mazworx 90mm MLS headgasket
AEBS headstuds
4CW or 8CW crank??????
Custom insert for lower oil pan to allow higher oil capacity?
Anti-splash plate??
VE oil pump
Electric water pump or not????

What do you think?
2009-04-17 00:13:56
#2
miko has a build on here that gives you more displacement too, and it wasn't too costly, you should look into that...
2009-04-17 02:50:48
#3
Originally Posted by skcusloa
miko has a build on here that gives you more displacement too, and it wasn't too costly, you should look into that...


The one with the Tomei crank? Yeah - outa my price range....
2009-04-17 03:39:10
#4
Then ya out of the ULTIMATE block range.LOL
2009-04-17 08:01:06
#5
Originally Posted by Re-spect
Then ya out of the ULTIMATE block range.LOL


Hillarious. Clown.

I asked for input on what will make a decent bottom end for an all motor SR20. The only constraint I have is to stay 86mm stroke and I don't want to go over 90mm bore.

If you don't have something constructive to add then rather shut the pie-hole.
2009-04-17 09:24:40
#6
just when i think about building a fast NA Sr20 a fellow Sa guy starts. damn.

but i would look at miko's build he is the na guy around here. just dont do the tomei crank. ill look quick for mikes budget build on the non dash aswell for you

found it

http://www.sr20forum.com/all-motor/215517-inexpensive-motor-build-part-1-a.html
2009-04-17 11:41:16
#7
Originally Posted by Doctor
Hillarious. Clown.

I asked for input on what will make a decent bottom end for an all motor SR20. The only constraint I have is to stay 86mm stroke and I don't want to go over 90mm bore.

If you don't have something constructive to add then rather shut the pie-hole.


i dont think he was trying to shoot you down, just showing you that the tomie crank is great to have for the ultimate block. but in any case the 90mm by 86mm is good, 8 counter fully balanced assembly, 12.5.1 compression, ect.
2009-04-17 12:12:52
#8
For a NA SR22DE I would go with parts listed below from what I know now.

90mm 12 to 1 pistons ( I actually would go 91 or 92 mm )
86mm Knife edged crank
Mazwox 92 mm headgasket
O2 induction Manifold with N1 70mm TB
Ported Highport Head and convert to Tomei Solid Lifter
BC valve springs and retainers
JWT CM6 cams
370 cc Injs
Nice 4 into 1 header
3 inch exhaust
Aluminum flywheel
JWT clutch
G spec Pully
Calum Realtime ECU
Maxima MAF
VE oil Pump


When I made 200 WHP in my SR22DE back in 1999 I was running

90mm 12 to 1 pistons
Stock Crank 86mm
Ported head
JWT valve springs and titanium retainers
C3 cams ( Did not get a chance to put CM6 solid lifter cams in )
O2 induction manifold, 64mm bored TB ( If I knew about he N1 TB it would have ben on )
4 into 1 header
2.5 inch exhaust ( If I knew better I would have run 3 inch and picked up 5 more WHP )
JWT ECU
Bored out 54mm MAF ( If I knew better I would have run a Maxima 3in MAF )
Aluminum flywheel
JWT clutch
UR Crank pully

My 2.2L DE setup would have gotten to 220 WHP if like said above, I had

1. 3inch exhaust ( 3-5 WHP )
2. CM6 solid lifter cams ( proven to make 10-13 WHP more than C3 cams )
3. N1 70mm TB instead of bored out stock TB to 64mm ( Who know 1-3 WHP )
4. 3 inch Maxima MAF instead of bored out stock 54 mm MAF. ( 1-3 WHP )
2009-04-17 12:41:42
#9
JWT makes the CM6? Dang they smashing the C3's.
2009-04-17 12:42:49
#10
Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
JWT makes the CM6? Dang they smashing the C3's.



The CM6 has been out for 10 years to the public.
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