Thread: GTiR swap is "sagging"... solid motor mounts?

I just swapped a GTiR into my B14. The engine is running perfectly, but it appears as though the back right (passenger side) is sagging a bit. I can see the stress on my front right motor mount. I know the rear mount is crap, but I'm not sure if a new mount will fix the issue all together. The major problem here is that the power steering pump pulley is VERY close to the fender wall... to the point that any torque from the transmission is causing it to get pushed back and it's rubbing (not good at all).

So... I'm weighing my options...

1) just get a new rear mount and see if that helps.
2) get a solid rear mount and see if that helps even more
3) use a spacer (or custom mount) to raise the rear of the motor off of the cross member about 1/4" to 1/2"

Has anyone else had this issue before? It's almost like the engine is sitting back in the bay about 1/2" too far, but I can't get it to stay forward (blaming the rear mount here)

http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension-brakes-tech/14833-how-prothane-motor-mounts.html

1) Pointless unless you want to change is on a somewhat regular basis.
2) Closer - thou not doing all 4 is all pointless.
3) Is your rear mount bolted onto the cross member backwards? The "slit" in it should face forward.

The SR20DET 54C GTi-R is a tight fit whether it is in a B13 or B14. Run the solid mounts, deal with the vibrations, enjoy less wheel hop and know that you are 1 stop closer to not cracking a transmission case.

Also, @Vadim did a good write up that @Keo shared - Thou Vadim did it the hard way, if you can have access to a 10 ton press and some press tools, this job becomes much easier to do. If not, a quick trip to Harbor Freight is worth the investment in time savings.

My front right and dog bone (front) mounts are already prothane... I just ordered the two inserts I need for the back and transmission mounts. I hope it fixes the issue.

The shop I use has a 6 or 10 ton press... it should make things a lot easier.

Update: I replaced the rear mount with a prothane insert and it fixed the issue with the power steering pump. the back of the motor sits about an inch higher on that side and it doesn't budge.

I have the prothane insert for the transmission mount, but the 'bump' on the side that keeps it from moving broke off when I was trying to get the oem rubber insert out. I still have the one on the car that I can use, but I'm worried I'll screw that one up and be SOL until I can get another one in.

Is there a better way than pounding the hell out of it to get the old ring out?

10 Ton press with proper tools.

Yeah... I tried to use the press, but the lip of the actual mount is so small, it's hard to get a good seat on the insert itself. Only after bending the metal back was I able to get the press (20 ton in my shop) enough of a foot hold to pop the OEM insert out.

I just did a trans mount when converting my 97 from A/T to M/T - Your not doing something right as I had in done in minutes.

Maybe I'm not, idk... Did you have a press tool that fit the inner ring (the OEM mount ring) perfectly?

Yes - they were part of an OTC kit I have.