Thread: Something is wrong?!? Maybe someone can help me out!

Okay so here's the scoop.

So I drive a 95 200sx SE-R. I have most of the bolt-ons that you can have for a N/A sr20de. Including: headers, 2 1/4 exhaust system, intake, 2 of the 4 set unorthadox pulleys, JWT s4's, g20 ecu, short shifter, kyb agx/tein suspension.

Okay even with these mods., my car does not pull like it should be. I don't know if my distributor is in the wrong degree, or maybe it just needs professional tuning. Don't get me wrong, it still pulls hard, and the s4's still kick in at 3500 like they should be, but my cousin said he has driven b13s and b14s with almost the same set up as mine, and they pull a hell lot stronger. Can someone please help me out. It's sad when I ran a 2001-2002 Si and lose, when I know I should be able to pull him with my set up.

I'm trying to get my car back in top shape so I can run it in the tracks this summer. Thanks!

**Oh yea, would it matter if I have the same set up for a low-port or high-port? I have a high-port, thats why im just curious.

compression test, get a timing light and check the timing try those, that should narrow it down some and also do a full tune up. Spark plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor fuel, filter

im in the same boat as you. my bud with a jdm sr20 with only a pop charger can take me majorly....and i mean majorly. It pisses me off. Ive done a tune up and everything, it hasnt helped at all.

are you saying that you arent sure weather or not if your timing is set right? sounds like you could maybe use a advancing of the timing or at least set it, if your timing is retarded it will feel off.

Things to check (not in any order)

Cap
Rotor
Plugs
Wires
Ignition Timing
TPS
Vacuum leaks

I think there are a few things that I'm missing, but those items are a good start.

What fuel do you fill up with?
What kind of header is installed?
Why only 2.25" exhaust? What brand?

Just a couple months ago, I replaced all my sensors within the car, and did a full tune up including spark plugs, wires, rotor cap, oil change and what not. I also only pump either Mobile 93 or Shell's V-power. I also advanced my distributor all the way, otherwise it doesn't pull, and it legs a little if not advanced all the way. I think the timing might be off, but I know its a b*tch to work wit the timing chain. But if it comes down to that, I'll do it.

Oh yea, should I go bigger in the piping? Do you think I should go bigger? Right now its just custom piping from the headers all the way back. Headers? I don't know, it came with the car when i bought it.

**Also did a compression timing, and it read 155-160 all the way across...shouldn't it be at 180psi?

yes 180 is perfect i believe and I wouldn't have touched the distributor without a timing light haha especially all the way, you probably bent your valves doing that :/ might have bad rings also or head gasket

I don't think you bent your valves. I've had my mechanical timing WAY off, and valves never made contact with pistons.

If your distributor is all the way advanced and the car seems to be running normal, what happens when you retard the timing? Does it struggle to run? Sounds to me like a mechanical timing issue, if this is the case.

I say 2.5" exhaust is good for a bolt on SR motor. In reality, you're only shifting the powerband slightly, when going from 2.25" to 2.5". Just sounds better to me, though

Well when i retard the distributor it tends to lag..struggles for power. I think it might be a timing thing. I'll have to get that timing light and check it out.

What you REALLY should do, to verify mechanical timing, is set the motor to TDC, by sticking a really long screwdriver in cylinder #1. Have the screwdriver come to it's highest point by rotating the crank by hand. Once the cylinder has the screwdriver at it's highest point, look at your crank, and verify that the second tick mark is directly on the timing pin that sticks out of the block. If it's not, your mechanical timing is off, and you need to pull the valvecover to re-set your mechanical timing.

At top dead center, with the crank lined up with the second tick mark on the harmonic balancer (crank pulley), the cams should be positioned so that the intake cam pin is at 10 o'clock, and the exhaust pin at 12 o'clock, and 20 pins between the teeth.