Thread: Oldsser 95 se-r

Thought i'd introduce my ride.
Its a 95 200sx se-r, bought as a daily after i fell in love with SR20 sentras (92 se-r), here is a picture from when i got it:



Here is another picture with its older brother:



A month later came the mods, an alpine headunit, hid's on the foglights, a black garnish trim from another se-r and wheels....



Then 22k miles later it decided it no longer wanted to start
At first, it was found that 3 rocker arms were broken, they were replaced but still didnt work, then the chain became a suspect as the car sounded retarded, the timing that is
Then came the teardown, which revealed pretty much nothing other than the chain jumped a tooth or two theory. Then came the lets get another engine mindset and after searching some i found a NEW oem Nissan longblock which was old stock @ some dealer and later purchased by the place where i happened to get it from.... Here is a picture, almost too pretty to install:




further teardown of the engine bay (2nd picture shows the new wheels):





Then came the might as wells, which brought along new hoses, motor mounts and a clutch (i had already done a tune-up a few months back).
And this is its current state, hopefully it will be ready by this weekend:



Mods are pretty much being kept to a minimum, there is an exhaust system in the near future though....
Just thought i'd share, nothing more than a stock boring Nissan.... should be sweet when completed.

sweet build. Looks great in white!

Engine swap is done!
BUT it wont stay running
It runs rough and will eventually stall.
A known good MAF sensor did not resolve the issue. What other parts should i be looking at?
Wear items like fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, etc have all been checked.

check for vaccum leaks, bad connections on sensors, check for spark, check for fuel.

How much $$ did you drop for that longblock?

I paid $1100 for the block, maybe a bit overpriced but you cant beat new

Car is running great now after installing a MAF i got from Vadim. Also had to replace a bad distributor coil was toast.
I had one issue when installing the new engine though, when i tried to remove the trans mount I couldnt. Seem like the nut that holds it to the frame is welded and the welds broke off? Anyone ever run into this problem? How can it be fixed?

Nice find on the new motor, I don't know how the hell someone would leave an SR laying around for 10+ years...

If you are talking about the thru bolt in the middle I had this problem wen I stripped my bolt installing the es one.first check the bolt to make sure that didn't strip.if you can get it out.use a vice grip the bolt.while loosening the bolt with one hand tap it with a hammer with the other.if it moves out then something is strip*Make sure there's a jack on motor and tranny with a 2*4 in between so everything wish straight and no stress is put on these bolts* if it is the bolt or nut remove the driver wheel n drill. A 3/4 hole in the wheel well where your right behind that nut so you canget a long socket to hold back on the nut for removal and installation.when finished ream Edges of the hole sand around prime a lil. Get a rubber 3/4 plug. Once done lightly undercoat the spot.now you will have access to your bolt for further service.if the bolt is stripped order one from nissan if you can to avoid drilling holes

Bolt isnt stripped... sadly
Its the nut that welded on the inside of the frame that is loose.
I thought about that but it seems like a lot of work was hoping for an easier fix
Oh well... I might tackle this one right after christmas....

Good luck bro.it ain't that big of a deal to put a hole there put a quarter inch hole where you think it is for a pilot hole. Look how close you are with a flashlight.if you're way off,after everything the hole is small enough to be covered with a lil bit of gorilla hair and primer surfacer.