Thread: Beam Bending

1) The car does not need to be running. At the Atlanta event, one of the cars was trailered in and people helped roll it on and off the trailer and into the shop.
2) The entire beam gets bent. It has to be a gradual curve so it does not kink in the center.
3) Steve is an upfront guy. Very professional. You won't lose your money if you can get him to agree to do it. We bought his plane ticket and I put him up at my house for two nights - I'm too old to party. Plus, this is serious business and it needs to be done right.
4) We had someone drive from Cincinnati to Atlanta for our event. I was willing to pay for a double share if we did not get 6 paid because it's worth every penny and more to have this done.
5) He can also do B15's if you need to include them to get 6 people. Steve doesn't like to, but he will.
6) Start with reaching out to Steve to see if he is even interested.

He just posted on the other site. He said he'll do it, but don't contact him unless you have the people lined up, location arranged, finances worked out etc.

^Swiss how much does this help the B14's? I'm a B13 guy and I've never really looked into it.

It's pretty significant. Try setting your B13 to 1/8 rear toe in, then change it back.

With the toe-in, when you make a steering input, the rear of the car wants to keep the car going straight (understeer). With the beam bent, when you make a steering input, the rear of the car obediently follows the front. You can apply power more and earlier without having the front wheels sliding off in a straight line. It is noticeable even when turning corners on city streets.

Though I have learned to live with this happening.